Reviewed by
Lucia Appleby
Staying at Las Bugambilias is like staying in a family home, decorated by someone with a lively eye for craft and colour. Silver wall hangings, cheerful folk paintings, bright textiles, religious icons covering everything from angels to skeletons - this is a crash course in the quirky beauty of Mexican art. Table settings for the communal breakfasts are exquisite, and changed daily; what doesn’t change is the interesting guests you’ll meet over your morning meal, many of whom return to Las Bugambilias every year - you’ll even see photos of them dotted around the walls.
The family-like atmosphere works so well because there’s a real family behind Las Bugambilias: the Cabreras. One sister runs the popular next-door restaurant, the wife of a brother is the efficient manager, and the behind-the-scenes matriarch tends to the medicinal garden with its blissful temazcal (traditional steam bath) treatments. Outside the hotel, husband René offers excellent personalised tours of local markets, mezcal distilleries, the Zapotec city of Monte Alban, the stunning cascades of Hierve el Agua, and more besides. And everyone contributes to the wonderful ambiance of authenticity and true Mexican hospitality.
The family-like atmosphere works so well because there’s a real family behind Las Bugambilias: the Cabreras. One sister runs the popular next-door restaurant, the wife of a brother is the efficient manager, and the behind-the-scenes matriarch tends to the medicinal garden with its blissful temazcal (traditional steam bath) treatments. Outside the hotel, husband René offers excellent personalised tours of local markets, mezcal distilleries, the Zapotec city of Monte Alban, the stunning cascades of Hierve el Agua, and more besides. And everyone contributes to the wonderful ambiance of authenticity and true Mexican hospitality.
Highs
- The location is ideal: on a relatively quiet street, within easy walking of Oaxaca's Zócalo (main square), shops, restaurants and museums
- This is no cookie-cutter hotel: every room is different, with family heirlooms, vintage furniture or local crafts
- Our breakfasts were both delicious and healthy
- We loved the relaxed, social and friendly family atmosphere
- An easy and affordable way to experience Temazcal treatments - soothing herbal steam baths
Lows
- This is essentially a simple townhouse B&B, with no pool or grounds to speak of
- Car parking is tricky
- Some rooms are above the next-door restaurant and can get a bit noisy
Best time to go
Come at any time of year - Oaxaca is blessed with a temperate climate all year round, though you might experience some rain between May and September.
If you time it right, you can join the family for local celebrations, including Day of the Dead (1-2 November), Noche de Rábanos (‘Night of Radishes', held in December), Christmas, Easter, and Guelaguetza (a dance festival held in July, and the largest fiesta in Oaxaca)
If you time it right, you can join the family for local celebrations, including Day of the Dead (1-2 November), Noche de Rábanos (‘Night of Radishes', held in December), Christmas, Easter, and Guelaguetza (a dance festival held in July, and the largest fiesta in Oaxaca)
Our top tips
Take time to look through the small trunk in reception - it's filled with shimmery scarves, hand-woven tunics and artisan silver jewellery collected by an American friend of the family. The items can be purchased if anything catches your eye.