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The largest island in Greece, and second largest in the Med, is
also, by good fortune, one of the most stunningly scenic and
historically rich. Minoan palaces, Venetian harbours, snow-capped
mountains, deep gorges, tiny coves and bustling beaches, proud and
generous inhabitants, colourful traditions - there are lots of good
reasons to visit. But there are also lots of people who know about
them. Every day in summer, dozens of European charter flights land
at the busy airports of Chania and Heraklion; but most visitors are
bused to north-coast resorts, leaving other parts of the island
mercifully empty. Enjoying a holiday on Crete is all about finding
the right place to stay, away from the crowds but within striking
distance of the gems.
While large stretches of the north coastline have succumbed to mass
development, there is one spot - a long-standing favourite of ours
- which has kept its lazy-fishing-village charm: Panormos, and its
Villa Kynthia guesthouse. Along the south coast
there is no shortage of stunning coves backed by soaring mountains:
the stretch between Paleohora and Souyia springs to mind (much of
it only accessible on foot or by boat), and escapists will love the
remote Anidri Eco-cottages. On the western and
eastern tips of the island are some of the most idyllic beaches
imaginable: the sandy sickles of Elafonisi and Balos, easily
reached from Elia in the west; and, in the east,
the perennially popular palm-shaded strand of Vai and the beachside
ruins of Minoan Zakros, accessible from The White
Houses and Casa dei Mezzo. All of these
hotels and villas offer boutique tranquillity by night and a choice
of beaches by day, if you don't mind a short drive.
The interior is very mountainous, with three huge ranges reaching
over 2000m (6500 ft) in altitude. These are real wildernesses,
baking in summer and snow-covered in winter, which hikers will
revel in, but should not underestimate. The White Mountains are a
personal favourite, with lunar summits, elusive chamois and
neck-cricking gorges (try Ayia Irini or Aradena; leave Samaria to
the crowds). Nestling in their foothills, among lush avocado and
citrus groves, you'll stumble upon crumbling Byzantine chapels and
picturesque villages. Two of the most beautiful of these hamlets -
Milia, high in the White Mountains of the west,
and White River near Makriyialos on the east coast
- have been restored as rustic-chic retreats for discerning guests,
and would make a perfect pairing for a fortnight's holiday.
Before you leave, indulge yourself for a few days in one of the
lively, Italianate towns of the north coast. Venetian fortresses,
Turkish mosques, quintessentially Greek fishing harbours and
cosmopolitan shops make westerly Chania or Rethymno prime
candidates, with a choice of palazzo-style hotels in each. If
you're after a mix of partying and pampering, head to Elounda in
the east, with a choice of ultra-luxe or budget resorts, and lively
Agios Nikolaos on its doorstep. And don't forget Knossos, the king
of Minoan palaces, which is near to Crete's capital Heraklion, and
to the Villa Creta.
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