Little Swallows

Rooms

Each of the simple but elegant bedrooms is named after a Greek god. We stayed in Hestia (goddess of the family, house and hearth) which has, appropriately, a fireplace - a rather handsome one at that - and two ornately carved Flemish beds. These supremely comfy beds, dating from the period in which the house was built (mid 19th-century: Pelion's 'golden age'), are the highlight of this guest house. Another well-named bedroom is Hera (wife of Zeus, she stands as a symbol of family) with a cradle suitable for a younger child. Again, the bed itself is a beauty. Above it, Artemis has a draped four-poster and a small balcony shaded by a huge plane tree. We thought this the most romantic room.

Walls are painted white, cream, pale terracotta, soft green or canary yellow. Ceilings are timbered, and some are painted in traditional Pelion style; floors are of polished wood, softened by a rug. Aphrodite is distinguished by its elegant brass chandelier and stone fireplace. Chestnut windows are modestly dressed - perhaps just a touch of lace - and have shutters to keep out the light. Silence is total (apart from the occasional dog bark) and we slept soundly until late. Apollo's windows are in recessed arches. Duvets and bed linen are white and beautifully embroidered.

Just one room comes with a bath (Hera's), the rest have hydromassage showers; all are nicely kitted out with thick towels, hairdryers and lotions. There's central heating throughout, in anticipation of winter (possibly snowy) stays, and a couple of the rooms are in a new annexe.

50 metres down the lane is a simpler studio for 2-3, with a double bed, a bathroom with shower, a living area with sofa (can be used as child's bed), a wood-burner, and a pine-clad kitchenette with dining table.

Features include:

• WiFi

Eating

This is a breakfast-only guesthouse, although afternoon snacks are available. On sunny days you eat on the terrace with the wonderful view. If the weather is cool - or if it's raining: it sometimes does here - there's a rustic-walled breakfast room in the converted stables; this also has a real fire for cosy evenings. We also liked the sitting room on the top floor with its line up of Greek windows and sweep of wooden floor. At one end is a long varnished pine table and leather armchairs for board games and cards (bring your own), at the other are low cushioned benches for lazy reading.

Breakfasts are feasts of cheeses, yogurts, honeys and charcuterie, and promise a different platter of pastries, waffles and sweet Greek delicacies each day. We loved the fresh orange juice, local fruit, perfectly cooked eggs, and the wide choice of teas. As Ward observed: "We only do breakfast, so we try to do it well" - and boy, do they succeed.

If you're happy with simple Greek food (lots of grills, pies and delicious vegetables), the village's tavernas will fit the bill; we enjoyed grilled sardines with green beans and aubergines at Drossia. You'll find a plane-shaded square with a string of cafés in this (and almost every) village; in neighbouring Vizitsa, Arhontiko taverna comes recommended. For fish dishes you should head for the coast: we enjoyed the simple seafood grills of Giorgos in Malaki (seasonal; tel 24280 94238), whose tables stand practically in the water, but there's plenty more choice in Kala Nera, Afissos etc.

If you're self-catering in the studio, which has a simple kitchenette (2-ring hob/mini-oven, small fridge, sink), you'll find two groceries in the village for the basics, and a bakery. For further supplies, head for Milies (6km). Breakfast is included in the price.

Features include:

• Breakfast
• Restaurants nearby

Activities

• Wander through the cobbled village lanes admiring the imposing stone mansions, then laze on the hotel terrace with its mountain and sea views
  
• Discover the area on foot: there's a fantastic hike from Pinakates across the high, beech-cloaked spine to the scattered hamlets of Tsangarada (5-6 hours, buy Cicerone's "The Mountains of Greece" for directions); and an easier one from Milies to Xourihti following the old mulepath (4 hours, follow red waymarks)
  
• Drive or walk down to the sheltered beaches of the Pagasitic Gulf: Kala Nera is the nearest (10km by road, 5km by lovely path), Afissos (16km by road) is popular and sandy, with watersports; tiny Lefokastro has a peaceful bay and picturesque fish restaurant
  
• The most turquoise waters are on the Aegean side - try Milopotamos with its famous rock arch, sandy Horefto below Zagora, or the magically enclosed cove of Fakistra, a short walk from the end of the road below Tsangarada
  
• Visit Pelion's pretty stone-and-slate villages: Milies (6km) is touristy but worth a wander for its fabulously frescoed church, famous library and speciality cheese pies, while popular Vizitsa (3km) has impressively restored mansions, cobbled streets and a shady central square
  
• From the station at Milies a narrow gauge railway takes tourists on a 2-hour trip to Ano Lehonia at weekends, chugging through olive groves and over viaducts with panoramic seaviews
  
• You could rent a mountain bike from Kala Nera and explore the myriad forestry tracks, with the help of Anavasi's excellent 1:25,000 map
  
• Come in winter for gentle skiing at Agriolefkes, 1 hour's drive away: 3 lifts and 3 easy/moderate runs around 1500m in altitude

Activities on site or nearby include:

• Birdwatching
• Cycling
• Hiking
• Historical sites
• Horse riding
• Mountain biking
• Sailing
• Snorkelling
• Swimming
• Traditional cultures
• Wildlife
• Windsurfing

Kids

The owners welcome children of all ages, but it's really only suited to more adventurous kids. Beaches are beautiful and sandy, but require a short drive. Part of the attraction hereabouts is hiking; reluctant young walkers would not be happy.
There are 2 triple rooms suitable for families, and a room with a cot, which is free. There's also a self-catering studio apartment that sleeps 3.

Best for:

Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

Cots Available, Family Rooms

For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection

Location

Pinakates is situated in the wooded hills of the Pelion peninsula, a 25km drive from the town of Volos, taking in some fairly tortuous mountainous roads. Pelion is on the east coast of mainland Greece.

By Air
Fly into Volos (Nea Anchialos, 65km), if you can find a suitable flight. Otherwise Thessaloniki and Athens are respectively 3 and 4 hours' drive away, and are much better connected.

By Car
If you hire a car - and you'd be brave to come without one: the buses travel to the village only twice a day - see our car rental recommendations. Roads around Pinakates are pretty tortuous and badly signed; avoid travelling at night.

By Boat from Skiathos
It's possible to combine Pelion with Skiathos using boats and hydrofoils in and out of Volos (30-45 mins' drive from the hotel), or the summer caique connection into Katigiorgis (1 hour's drive away). Skiathos has an airport with charter flights from the UK and a few other countries, as well as domestic flights from Athens.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.

More on getting to Greece and getting around.