La Tangerina grabs an unforgettable location at the highest point of Tangier’s hilltop kasbah, at the edge of the cliff which was its defensive raison d’être. From its airy roof terrace you look out across its old town and harbour to the Atlantic and the southern Spanish coast. Farida and her husband Jürgen couldn’t have found a better spot on which to create the small guesthouse of their dreams after returning to the town of her birth.
Jürgen oversaw restoration with a craftsman’s eye for detail and a brief of "top spec everything". They then trawled the antique shops of the town for memorabilia from the town’s Belle Epoque, a time when the international glitterati made Tangier their own, searching out old suitcases and trunks, mirrors and dressers, lamps and radios. The 10 rooms now evoke the times of Bowles and Waugh, and the house remains true to the spirit of that cosmopolitan past: you eat at one table with your hosts and other guests. A wonderfully characterful hideaway in a characteristically wonderful Moroccan city.
Highs
- Bedrooms get the mix just right between solid comfort and local flavour, with a predominance of tangerine in colour schemes
- Jürgen and Farida greet guests in an unaffected, easy manner. They really make you feel chez toi
- La Tangerina’s position couldn’t be better: heart-stopping views, no passing traffic, and you’re at the heart of the kasbah
- The communal spaces - sitting room, dining room, basement hammam - all share the same intimate, cared-for vibe
Lows
- You can't park right outside the house, but you can drive there and drop off your suitcases, then park 75m away
- Expect some hassle in the Tangier souks; but armed with patience, humour and a few euros, you can grab some great ethno-bargains
- The hotel is the sort of place where you are obliged to be sociable
- Some rooms are a little spartan, but the pretty details won us over
Best time to go
Being in a city you are less dependant on what the weather is doing so any time of year is a good time to visit Tangier. Just avoid August when thousands of Moroccans living in France return for the vacances nationales and the ferries struggle to cope with the sudden influx of vehicles.
Our top tips
The roof terrace is an inspirational place to be at any time of day. Be sure to put time aside for a sundowner and, if you rise early, to watch the sun coming up over Spain.
- Riad Hotel
- 10 rooms + 3 apartments for 2-4
- Breakfast (+ dinner on request)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Steam Room
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
Rooms
La Tangerina’s bedrooms are amongst the nicest we came across in northern Morocco. They are clean, uncluttered and quiet, with antique furniture adding a distinctly retro veneer: old trunks, ornate 20s mirrors, leather armchairs, prints of Tangier and old radio sets cleverly doubling as speakers for the in-house music system. Even the hinges and latches on doors are antique, grabbed when the town’s most famous hotel was refitted.
The bedroom’s more cosmopolitan elements have been seamlessly combined with traditional, Moroccan decorative finishes: wafer-bricked arches, beige zellig floor tiles, handsome tadlakt in the shower rooms and colourful use of sabra for cushions and curtains.
As you’d expect from rooms which follow the twists and turns of an old house, some are large, others much smaller. The jewel in La Tangerina’s crown is rooftop Room 10 for its soaring views across town to sea. Room 8 also grabs an impressive ocean vista. Most have sitting rooms, and none are far from the stunning roof terrace. All have beautiful embroidered linen, comfy mattresses and plenty of hanging space in their louvre-doored wardrobes.
Features include:
- WiFi
Eating
Jürgen and Farida often join guests at the breakfast table to help plan their days. We liked the ‘one table’ philosophy and felt it reflected the owners' easy, inclusive natures. One of their Moroccan staff is on hand to prepare breakfast, helped in their task by the dumb waiter that drops your meal down from the second-floor kitchen or hoists it up to the roof terrace when it's warm enough for al fresco dining.
Breakfasts are of the simple, Moroccan variety: freshly baked semi-leavened bread accompanied by jam, peanut butter or argan oil. Orange juice is freshly squeezed and the freshly ground coffee excellent.
No lunch is on offer - hardly a disadvantage with so many restaurants so close - but you could, and should, have dinner at La Tangerina. Evening meals kick off with a soup - harira (spicy meat and chickpeas), pea with mint or perhaps cream of courgette - followed by a lamb, chicken or fish tagine or perhaps Farida’s mother’s homemade pastilla (squab or chicken pie). You may be joined by Jürgen and Farida and have the chance to quiz them about Tangier and its history.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Dinner by arrangement
- Kids' meals
- Restaurants nearby
- Room service
Activities
- Spend the day on one of Tangier’s sandy beaches (the best ones are 16km away) and perhaps head round the coast to visit the Cave of Hercules, with its map-of-Africa shaped opening
- Laze on a lounger on Tangerina’s roof terrace then treat yourself to a full savon noir ‘gommage’ treatment in its hammam
- Explore the city’s labyrinthine souk where you'll find a wealth of leather, ceramics and glass to buy. Just be prepared for the more-aggressive-than-most sales pitch!
- Visit a carpet shop. Whether you buy one or not (and the temptation will be strong!) the whole experience is fascinating. You'll haggle over mint tea as you're shown hundreds of beautiful designs, and end up feeling that you'll always regret it if you don't hand over your Mastercard...
- Visit the Grand Mosque, with its unique square minaret towers. This is thought to be a former Roman temple and although small, is stunning inside
- Take a day trip south down the coast to Asilah, less than an hour’s drive away, and explore its remarkable oceanside medina - great for people watching
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Historical sites
- Museums / galleries
- Shopping / markets
- Swimming
Kids
With 2 children of their own, Farida and Jürgen are easy and accommodating when it comes to families with kids. They are flexible when it comes to meals and have their own suggestions for activities that would be good for little’uns.
One or two rooms in the riad can sleep 3, but if you need more space, ask about the two-bedroom apartment which they manage nearby,
Best for:
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
Families with 1 child can book Room 6, which has a single sofabed suitable for a child.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Baby equipment:
- Baby cots (on request only)
- Baby bedding
- Bottle warming
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
Food isn't served here all day long (they only serve breakfast and dinner) but you're in the middle of the Medina and there are plenty of options for eating out and snacking. Fussy eaters might find it difficult if they won't eat Moroccan food, however, but you can find Coke, bottled water, snacks like crisps and sweet honey pastries, and fresh fruit and veg easily.
Kids Activities nearby:
- Daytrip to beaches
- Browse the souks and brave the hasslers - older children may enjoy the assault on their senses
- Take a camel ride
Families Should Know:
There are steps up to the guesthouse and no lift - problematic if you're bringing a lot of kit with you (as is the fact that you can't park right outside). You will need to bring all baby gear with you (food, nappies, toys etc) as there's no supermarket nearby.
Distances:
- Airport: 25 minutes
- Hospital: 15 minutes
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
La Tangerina is in the heart of Tangier, on Morocco's north coast.
By Air:
Tangier Boukhalef Souahel (16km) is the nearest airport. Click on the links below for a list of airlines.
From the Airport
The hotel can arrange transfers from Tangier Airport. Alternatively you can just grab a taxi, but agree a price before you get in.
By Car:
Hiring a car is a great idea if you want to see more of Morocco - see our car rental recommendations.
By Boat from Spain:
There are regular fast ferries from Tarifa (45 mins) and from Algeciras (1 hr 15 mins) as well as masses of normal ferries from Algeciras which take 3 hours to make the crossing.
By Train:
The overnight Marrakech Express runs regular services between Marrakech and Tangier and the sunrises you'll see on board are fantastic. See Seat 61 for more details.
Detailed directions will be sent to you once you book through i-escape.
More on getting to Morocco and getting around
Airports:
- Tangier, Boukhalef Souahel 16.0 km TNG
Other:
- Beach 5.0 km
- Shops 0.2 km
- Restaurant 0.2 km