The Old Markets

Symi, Greece
Book from GBP Book from £133 per night

An intimate, elegantly restored hotel with a superb high-end restaurant and views overlooking Symi’s pretty horseshoe harbour

An intimate, elegantly restored hotel with a superb high-end restaurant and views overlooking Symi’s pretty horseshoe harbour

As we followed the well-heeled holidaymakers jostling off the ferry, Symi’s pastel-hued harbour provided a cheery welcome to this charming little island. Our route led us past glitzy yachts and waterfront restaurants, up well-worn steps and winding alleys, until we came upon some kittens playing outside an ornate wrought-iron gate. Andrew and Carlos greeted us, our hospitable hosts who've poured their passion into every corner of this stylish and sensitively restored boutique hotel.

This is the old market, where sponges, spices, and silver were traded from 1884. Although a listed monument, the market had lain in ruins since it was bombed in 1944. After 5 years of painstaking restoration, a quietly opulent hotel emerged from the rubble, combining contemporary pleasures (percale linens, rain showers) with original features (flagstone floors, stone arches). In 2016, the neighbouring Captain's Mansion joined the ensemble, along with a secret courtyard garden and an exclusive fine-dining restaurant led by Michelin-trained chefs. Our dream is to rent the whole place with friends – after all, the owners and their charming staff make you feel like special guests rather than paying customers.

Highs

  • Genuine, personal, but thoroughly professional service from real island insiders
  • Ideal location in the heart of the harbour but away from the hustle
  • Superb à la carte Champagne breakfast served until 11am and Symi's most sophisticated restaurant, AGORA
  • The special pleasure of staying in a listed monument with every modern comfort
  • The hotel's rooms and suites span two properties (next door to each other), both with lovely harbour views

Lows

  • Lots of steps to and from the hotel - so not suitable for those with limited mobility
  • No pool and the nearest beach is a 20-minute walk or a short boat ride away
  • Because of strict building restrictions, there are some quirky architectural features like sloping floors
  • Not all rooms and suites have views
  • Though not strictly adult-only, there are no facilities for kids

Best time to go

The best time to visit are the months of May, June and September. The annual Symi Festival (July – September) hosts free concerts, screenings, and performances in various venues. August can be incredibly busy.

The Old Markets is open from May 1 to October 31. During the winter, it is available on request for exclusive use only.

Our top tips

Rhodes and Symi make a perfect twin-centre holiday – fly direct to the island of Rhodes, spend a couple of days there doing the well-known cultural attractions, then catch a local ferry to untouristy Symi. Here you can explore castaway pebble beaches giving onto deep blue translucent waters, backed by rocky slopes peppered with fragrant herbs.

Day trippers and cruise boats from Rhodes descend on Symi around 11am and depart around 5pm, so it’s a good idea to escape the harbour during those hours.

Great for...

Beach
Foodie
Romantic
  • Boutique hotel
  • 10 rooms
  • Restaurant + bar (open daily)
  • Children allowed but not ideal
  • Closed: November-April
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Beach Nearby
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car not necessary
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Concierge Service
Room:

Rooms

Rooms are divided between the original Main Hotel and the adjacent Captain’s Mansion. Andrew scoured antique markets for maps, silverware, and lamps. All technology is cleverly concealed to preserve the period mood. Thoughtful details abound - lightweight beach towels, a well-edited selection of travel books.

Each of the Main Hotel rooms leading off the galleria is inspired by a trade route that once supplied The Old Markets. The Ottoman Room features a spectacular hammam-style bathroom and has a domed brick ceiling converted from an original baker’s oven. It’s charming, but better for shorter stays. The Venetian Room references Symi’s sponge trade, with period antiques and paintings of Venice. The Arabian Room, shot through with purple and navy silks, has carved bedheads and an open-plan bathroom, stocked with organic Korres toiletries.

At the top of the galleria, it’s worth paying the premium for The Symi Suite, with its delicate stencilling on the soaring ceilings. The 2-metre square bed is extra high, so you can gaze at the view. It was a joy to fling open all 5 shutters in the morning. At night the streets are near silent; mostly we were stirred by the soothing sounds of ship horns, fluttering sails, and church bells.

The Captain’s Mansion, a grand dame in the signature neoclassical style that Symi is known for, sits behind the original hotel and centres on a courtyard garden with magnificent pink bougainvillea. Set slightly uphill, the rooms here get even better views across the harbour and tend to be bigger, but lack the period features of the Old Market.

On our last visit, we stayed in the vast Aegean Suite. It's ideal for families, with a stunning double-height lounge and a balcony looking down onto Symi harbour. There's a mezzanine double bedroom, and two singles in separate areas of the lounge. It's the only room with its own entrance, which made it feel all the more exclusive. Honeymooners might prefer the hideaway Ouranos Suite, perched at the top of the building, with a light-filled lounge and a bedroom with harbour-view balcony. The Nimos, Chondros and Stroggilos Rooms have whitewashed walls and white bedspreads, with duck-egg blue armchairs and cushions. Their bathrooms combine exposed stonework with transparent glass washbasins and slick modern rain-showers – how refreshing.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Coffee / tea making
  • Hairdryer
  • In-room treatments available
  • Minibar
  • Safe box
  • Toiletries
  • TV
  • WiFi

Eating

Andrew's background as a professional chef means eating at the hotel is a special event. We had Greek yoghurt with homemade granola, honey & fruit and a Greek omelette with feta, cherry tomatoes and oregano and a Greek plate of olives, tomatoes and cheese. It may not be the typical continental affair, but it was exactly what we craved on a hot morning. Everything was fresh, flavourful, and proudly locally sourced. The peach and yoghurt smoothies are addictive.

Andrew's culinary passion has led to the opening of Symi's first fine-dining restaurant, AGORA. The chef at the helm is Chris Sidiropoulos who was ranked in the Top 6 chefs in the UK. Now back in Greece, he's funnelled his skills into the 11-course tasting menu (pescatarian, veggie and shorter versions available) that draws inspiration from Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. We enjoyed grouper with celeriac, bouillabaisse and black olive, cappelletti stuffed with peas and gruyere, fresh watermelon paired with sheep's yoghurt and basil, and a selection of decadent petit-fours to finish. Every dish was sublime, and the atmosphere - set by the laidback staff, palm-flanked courtyard and twinkling harbour lights - was second to none.

Guests are also treated to an aperitivo on the terrace every evening, with spectacular views down onto Symi harbour. We enjoyed a well-chosen selection of Greek wines paired with delicious homemade Parmesan biscuits.

Beyond the hotel, Tholos Taverna is idyllically placed at the mouth of Yialos harbour, with tables right by the water. Kali Strata Restaurant is perfect for classic Greek dishes done in style, but be warned it’s at the top of the famous Kali Strata steps – you’ll work that dinner off. Marathounda has the best beach taverna, where hungry goats try to steal your zucchini fritters, deep-fried baby shrimps and tender calamari over the fence.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Breakfast
  • Restaurant
  • Restaurants nearby
  • Room service
  • Vegetarian options
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Admire the silver icons and Byzantine frescoes at Panormitis Monastery, a major Greek Orthodox pilgrimage site (you can even stay overnight for free)
  • Take an all-day cruise around the island, stopping for dips at remote bays like Ayios Emilianos and a beach barbeque on the uninhabited islet of Sesklia
  • Hop aboard a water taxi to one of the dazzling pebble beaches along the island’s east coast – Ayios Yiorgos Disalonas, Nanou and Marathouda have translucent water and a ravishingly wild setting
  • Stroll along the coastal road past the pleasantly dilapidated boatyard to the sheltered bay of Nimborio as the sun sets and the moon rises
  • Climb up the steep steps of Kali Strata to Chorio (village), the old town with vertiginous views of the harbour – pausing at Kali Strata viewpoint, then calling at Lefteris, a traditional kafenio on the village square, for ouzo and octopus (Yiorgos and Maria’s taverna next door has legions of devoted fans and live music at weekends)
  • Symi is an ideal starting point for a sailing trip around nearby islands like Halki, Kastellorizo, Nissyros, and Tilos – all of which are under-the-radar and unspoiled. The most stylish way to cruise the archipelago is on an elegant wooden Turkish gulet.

    Activities on site or nearby include:

    • Boat trips
    • Cooking classes
    • Hiking
    • Historical sites
    • Museums / galleries
    • Nightlife
    • Private guided tours
    • Sailing
    • Snorkelling
    • Swimming
    • Well being
  • Kids

    This really is a grown up hotel; the historic buildings, steep steps, fine-dining restaurant and elegant atmosphere don't lend themselves to families. However, older children are allowed and the Aegean Suite offers spacious accommodation for a family of 4.

    Kid Friendly: Captains

    Location

    The hotel overlooks the historic harbour and is in the heart of Symi, the main town on Symi island in the Dodecanese Islands, Greece. Symi Town is sometimes divided into Gialos (or Yialos, the harbourside part) and Chorio (or Horio, the upper town).

    By Air
    The nearest airport is Rhodes Diagoras Airport, serviced several times a day by domestic airlines from Athens, Thessaloniki and Crete. It’s a 45-minute flight from Athens.

    It’s often cheaper (and certainly quicker) to catch a charter flight direct to Rhodes (or Kos) from the UK and several other European countries. Most charter flights operate from May-October.

    By Sea
    From Rhodes airport, it’s a 20-minute taxi (or bus) ride to the harbour. Boats leave from different harbours, so be sure to check in advance. Dodekanisos Seaways operates large passenger and car ferries to Symi once or twice a day; the journey takes about 1.5 hours.

    Sebeco Lines offer multiple crossings throughout the day on smaller passenger boats which are marginally faster.

    There is also an erratic and painfully slow ferry service from the port of Piraeus in Athens, which takes around 19 hours. A ferry from Piraeus to Rhodes takes 12-18 hours.

    By Car
    Car hire is not necessary. There are very few roads on Symi, and parking is very limited in the harbour (Yialos) and village (Chorio), which are mostly pedestrianised. Some beaches are accessible by footpaths, but even most far-flung bays are accessible by water taxi. You can also rent your own motorboat (just past the clock-tower, near where the ferries dock). A ‘driver’ costs extra.

    Detailed directions will be provided when you book through i-escape.

    Airports:

    • Rhodes 30.0 km RHO
    • Kos 60.0 km KGS

    Other:

    • Beach 0.3 km
    • Shops 0.1 km
    • Restaurant 0.1 km

    Our guests' ratings...

    Based on 3 independent reviews from i-escape guests

    10/10
    Room
    10/10
    Food
    10/10
    Service
    10/10
    Value
    10/10
    Overall

    {{ review.rating }}/10, ,

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