Chiang Mai & North: Why go

Thailand's second city offers shopping and crafts to rival its capital, but within a much more compact and friendly framework. Chiang Mai has 400,000 people and an easily-walkable city centre, at the heart of which is the famous night-bazaar. The 'rose of the north', as it's dubbed, is the perfect place to spend some time learning about the Thai way of life - including cookery or massage courses - or simply to relax and shop after a trekking trip. The town also boasts river-cruises, gardens and zoos, and the usual plethora of colourful temples, which give an insight into its heritage as the capital of the historic, semi-independent kingdom of Lanna ('a million rice-fields'). Don't miss Doi Suthep, a 14th-century pilgrimage site approached by a flight of 290 Naga (dragon)-flanked steps - or a funicular railway if you prefer.

The region's other raison d'être is the superb mountain and river scenery stretching away to the Burmese (Myanmar) and Laos borders, abounding in natural wildlife and peopled by hill-tribes. Almost every visitor takes part in some kind of trek, usually a multi-day combination of hiking and rafting, with the result that some of the trails turn into production lines in high season.

Equally exotic is the 'Golden Triangle' where Burma, Laos and Thailand converge, north of the burgeoning town of Chiang Rai. It's famous for the now-defunct opium trade, but today is of more interest for its hill-studded countryside and its access to the mighty Mekhong river.