
Reviewed by
Emily McDonnell
Hidden down a narrow street between a fishmonger and a buzzy restaurant lies a white door in a stone archway, which opens into one of Marrakech’s most stylish riads... Well, not really, but the internal courtyard - with its hand-painted blue tiles, graceful white columns and grand wooden doors - had us fooled. And as we climbed up spiral stairs to a split-level roof terrace, we were delighted by the views across the town's whitewashed roofs to the Ria Formosa Natural Park, where fishing boats bob on the waves and the bright sunshine is almost dazzling.
Once a weekday home for rural girls working in Olhão's fish-canning industry, the townhouse was saved from ruin by 2 architects, a historian and a teacher, who remodelled it into this airy, peaceful haven (no under 13s allowed). They carefully preserved and exposed original brickwork, turned former dormitories into 9 romantic bedrooms, and adorned communal spaces with local art and antiques from nearby Fuseta. We loved the sheer style of it all.
Once a weekday home for rural girls working in Olhão's fish-canning industry, the townhouse was saved from ruin by 2 architects, a historian and a teacher, who remodelled it into this airy, peaceful haven (no under 13s allowed). They carefully preserved and exposed original brickwork, turned former dormitories into 9 romantic bedrooms, and adorned communal spaces with local art and antiques from nearby Fuseta. We loved the sheer style of it all.
Highs
- Fantastic value, and rates include a great breakfast
- The rooftop terrace: a perfect spot for a lazy morning, an afternoon dip in the pool, or a sundowner
- Olhão is only 20 mins from Faro airport, yet it's an authentic fishing town with cobbled streets and simple restaurants serving charcoal-grilled sardines and jarros of wine; ideal for a car-free holiday
- You’re a taxi-boat ride from some of our favourite Portuguese beaches, in the Ria Formosa
- Managers Guillaume and Antje are incredibly welcoming
Lows
- Multi-level with steep spiral stairs - the rooftop cabins are only suitable if travelling with hand luggage only
- No TVs, air con or music docks (though there is WiFi)
- It can be difficult to park, but you don't really need a car here
Best time to go
This area of Portugal is great year-round, but we’d recommend April-October when warm weather is almost guaranteed. That said, we’ve visited in February and November and experienced sunny, dry days. Temperatures can soar in July and August, but the cool Atlantic acts as a welcome respite. Convento is closed in the winter months.
Our top tips
Take a day trip to Spain. Drive along the coastal road to Vila Real de Santo António and jump on the small ferry, which takes you across the Rio Guadiana. Just 5 minutes later, you’ll find yourself in Ayamonte, a pretty Spanish town filled with tapas restaurants. Just remember that Ayamonte is an hour ahead of Vila Real de Santo António, and most restaurants in Spain shut at 4pm; we’ve been caught out before!