Tamarind Village
Chiang Mai & North, Thailand
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Chiang Mai is a mighty urban sprawl around a seductive square mile of charm. Right in the heart of this charm, in a prime old town location where you’d expect it to be noisiest and hottest, is a true oasis of cool and calm. Built around a 200-year old tamarind tree, and approached through a long bamboo tunnel, this collection of buildings with verdant courtyards - inspired by rural temple cloisters - is a gem of a hotel.
Designed by the same people as the nearby Rachamankha, but with simpler materials and more humility, it feels comfortable and chic without being luxurious or upmarket. Newly refreshed bedrooms in boutique Lanna style make the best use of the limited space. There's a large swimming pool, an unbeatable breakfast buffet, and friendly staff who welcome you with cold drinks and city maps. It's owned by people who understand the hotel business (cynics might say a little too well), so everything runs smoothly, and there's the usual array of good (if slightly overpriced) spa treatments and tours. But the vibe remains relaxed, and the hotel's enduring popularity tells you that they have got the formula just right.
Designed by the same people as the nearby Rachamankha, but with simpler materials and more humility, it feels comfortable and chic without being luxurious or upmarket. Newly refreshed bedrooms in boutique Lanna style make the best use of the limited space. There's a large swimming pool, an unbeatable breakfast buffet, and friendly staff who welcome you with cold drinks and city maps. It's owned by people who understand the hotel business (cynics might say a little too well), so everything runs smoothly, and there's the usual array of good (if slightly overpriced) spa treatments and tours. But the vibe remains relaxed, and the hotel's enduring popularity tells you that they have got the formula just right.
Highs
- After a day of sightseeing, we loved plunging into the pool, designed like a lotus pond and set in dappled shade
- It's within walking distance of all the main temples and markets, including a Sunday market right outside
- Despite the central position, the hotel feels leafy and almost rural; and is surprisingly quiet at night (bar the occasional rooster)
- Service, for a largish hotel, remains sincere and personal
- Excellent value, especially considering the prime location and the pool
Lows
- The pool water can get warm, and at busy times deckchairs and towel space can be at a premium
- The restaurant, spilling out attractively on the rim of the pool, is quite steeply priced
- The spa seems a little expensive: more affordable options are available nearby
Best time to go
We think November-January are the best months to visit Chiang Mai -not too hot, and free from the swidden smoke of February-March and the rains of May-October. The crazy water festival of Songkran in April is also a draw.
Our top tips
We suggest staying in Chiang Mai for 3-4 days, to allow for a couple of temples, a full day browsing the markets and stalls, plus time for some spa treatments or a cookery lesson. You might want to split that into two short stays either side of a trekking trip. If it's your first visit, ask about their free daily walking tour of the city.