Awasi Atacama
San Pedro de Atacama, Atacama Desert, Chile
Reviewed by
Joyce Copeland
For thousands of years, San Pedro de Atacama has provided respite for travellers crossing the world’s driest desert. Today it’s the jumping-off point for tours of a startling geological collage of volcanoes, salt flats, turquoise lagoons, boiling geysers and Sahara-like dunes that awes even the most cosmopolitan traveller.
Awasi Atacama offers an authentic and singularly personal welcome. Cabanas with pointed thatched roofs mimic the neighbouring historic village, Aldea de Tulor. Meals served on the patio introduce surprising local flavours. Your private guide is ready to take you off-road to places tourists haven’t discovered. While the local wildlife, magical sunsets and nightly riot of stars will make you feel small, at Awasi you’re anything but insignificant. Drop your dusty hiking boots in the basket by your door to be cleaned. Savour a glass of Chilean Carménère by a poolside fireplace. Drift to sleep in a cosy bed. This is the smallest and most intimate luxury lodge in San Pedro, and our favourite.
Awasi Atacama offers an authentic and singularly personal welcome. Cabanas with pointed thatched roofs mimic the neighbouring historic village, Aldea de Tulor. Meals served on the patio introduce surprising local flavours. Your private guide is ready to take you off-road to places tourists haven’t discovered. While the local wildlife, magical sunsets and nightly riot of stars will make you feel small, at Awasi you’re anything but insignificant. Drop your dusty hiking boots in the basket by your door to be cleaned. Savour a glass of Chilean Carménère by a poolside fireplace. Drift to sleep in a cosy bed. This is the smallest and most intimate luxury lodge in San Pedro, and our favourite.
Highs
- The grounds: landscaped paths connect cabanas to a sprawling 'living-room' patio with candle-lit conversation areas, fireplaces, an open bar/kitchen and a pool
- Creature comforts: WiFi, free lemon-mint lip balm and acclimatizing chachacoma tea
- Authentic architecture: brea (hollow twig) lampshades, walls of adobe and smooth San Pedro River stones
- Distinctive cuisine fusing local herbs, grains and fruits; or you can walk to San Pedro's restaurants
- Fantastic bespoke outings, from llama caravans to river hikes: for each couple, a multilingual guide and 4x4 GPS-fitted jeep await (no coach trips here!)
Lows
- It looks frighteningly expensive - but bear in mind that rates include all meals, drinks, private excursions and transfers from the local airport
- Dusty San Pedro is very much a tourist town with cheap souvenirs, restaurant touts and crowds during summer, but you can escape the tack at Awasi
- The altitude (2450m/8000ft) may cause mountain sickness (headache, nausea), while the intense sunlight and arid desert air take their toll on hair, skin and sinuses
- There are no TVs or DVDs. Nature provides the drama here
Best time to go
Days are sunny and mild nearly year-round - ranging from 72F (22C) in the winter (June-August) to highs of 90F (32C) in the summer (January-March), the busiest months for tourists. In February, the “Bolivian Winter” can produce some rainfall. Winter nights can be chilly; temperatures can fall below freezing.
On February 2, the biggest festival in San Pedro, Festival de la Candelaria, features a large parade of bands and dancers.
On February 2, the biggest festival in San Pedro, Festival de la Candelaria, features a large parade of bands and dancers.
Our top tips
- If you’re into stargazing, schedule your trip during the new moon for the best viewing conditions; otherwise, the drama of a full moon adds to this unique landscape
- Bring lots of layers of clothes (whenever you come), and lots of sun-cream - the sun is intense at altitude
- If you want to see more of Chile's stunning landscapes, combine a stay here with Awasi Atacama's sister property in Patagonia