Being six months pregnant, all I wanted from this holiday was maximum pampering. We chose to lap up some swish adult-only hotels while we still could, finding secluded pockets where luxury and tranquillity go hand in hand. The island’s scenery is spectacular, and once you get away from the busy coasts it’s a different world – no overtourism issues here. The interior is where to go for quiet, understated style in Mallorca – perfect babymoon material!
Stop 1: Fontsanta, nr Santanyi
Arriving at Fontsanta after dark, the gate swung open to reveal a palm-lined, lantern-lit drive that would lead us to the grand entrance. We were staying in one of the suites on the first floor, which came with a private terrace overlooking the salt flats and coast beyond (all rooms here have some form of private outdoor space). As with many Mallorquin hotels, the design is minimal and neutral, all white linens and billowing curtains for that luxe, elegant look.
I’m a sucker for gardens, and the ones surrounding this hotel are like a hidden Eden – a riot of colour, enhanced by hot-pink bougainvillea. Among the greenery are two outdoor pools flanked by four-poster daybeds, hot tubs cleverly sheltered by bushes, sculpture gardens, and a wisteria-draped restaurant terrace with a soothing water feature. Breakfast here was a highlight: possibly the most impressive buffet I’ve seen is laid out on a long table inside, featuring an array of Mallorquin pastries, cured meats, scrape-your-own honeycomb, sparkling wine, and flavoured salt from the surrounding flats. Sadly we couldn’t sample dinner, but a previous i-escape reviewer rated it as one of her best meals ever.
But the star of the show is the unique thermal circuit, powered by the island’s only natural hot spring, and free for all hotel guests to use. The circuit has individual bath rooms, an indoor pool, a jacuzzi, a sauna, a Turkish bath and a vaporium, and the water is said to be therapeutic thanks to its mineral-rich content. The rooms felt like old Roman bathhouses, with voluptuous stone archways and big glass windows overlooking quiet courtyards.
Although it’s inland, Fontsanta is only 5 minutes from beautiful El Trenc beach (or you can borrow a bike and get there in 10). This long, wild stretch is backed by a nature reserve and has sheltered, turquoise water that’ll tempt even the most shy of sea swimmers. We found it rather busy when we visited in June, but Fontsanta has a private beach hut (free for suite guests, otherwise extra cost) hidden in the coastal pine woods away from the hordes. Make the most of this if you’re here in summer – you’ll relish the exclusivity. The hut is stocked with food and drink, towels, umbrellas and outdoor showers, and it’s all yours to retreat to after dipping in that dreamy sea.
Stop 2: Son Jaumell, nr Capdepera
Set a couple of kilometres inland from a string of beautiful east-coast beaches, Son Jaumell sits in blissful isolation among almond groves, vineyards (they produce their own wine) and ancient oak trees. Of the three places we stayed at on this trip, it was the most affordable hotel – but we were by no means slumming it. The place is sophisticated but not at all stuffy. Well-behaved kids are welcome here, so it’s a good option for a luxe family stay too.
The old finca has been transformed into beautiful, minimalist rooms – most set around the pool, some across the street offering added privacy and views of Capdepera. The style is Mallorquín rustic: whitest of white linens, parquet flooring, billowing white curtains and locally handwoven baskets. I was chuffed with my free beach bag and toiletry bag.
We spent the afternoon lounging poolside, then trotted over to the restaurant for a leisurely dinner. Dining takes place on a shady terrace cloaked in climbing plants, with views out over the gardens and towards Capdepera’s hilltop castle. Sitting here was incredibly tranquil – and on our second morning we had a live guitarist at breakfast which added to the vibe. I thought the food was excellent and well priced, and I geeked out over the bespoke crockery used to present dishes: papier-mache-style bowls to serve beef tartare and pumpkin ravioli, and a misshapen granite rock topped with truffles to end the meal.
Manager Vicente and all the staff were eager to please, giving us recommendations for beaches and restaurants, and wanting us to experience the best of the local area (away from the tourists). They’ve got an app with local weather reports and beach webcams, so you can pick according to conditions. As we were heading down for dinner, the housekeeper popped into our room for turndown service, slipping us some extra chocolates in addition to the ones she left on our pillows. We were like smitten children as we pocketed our treats!
The nearby coastal town of Cala Ratjada was a bit too resorty for us, but it does have the most gorgeous beach – top tip from Vicente: walk to the far end, through the pine woods that back the beach, where it’s much quieter. For eating out, we preferred the inland towns of Capdepera and Arta, which are free from noisy bars and have ancient monuments to explore; climb up to the Santuari de Sant Salvador fortress in Arta for a magnificent view.
Stop 3: Son Brull, nr Pollensa
Son Brull blew me away. Set in a former monastery in a rural spot near Pollensa and the Tramuntana mountains, it’s tantalisingly tranquil. We were spoilt rotten, lapping up the vineyard views through the elegant arches of our private terrace. It had the air of a Roman palace, so we lorded it over the poolgoers below, donning our new straw hats (free gifts from the hotel) like prize idiots. They also gifted us their own cava on ice plus cute pots of homemade jam.
The hub of the hotel is the pool, flanked by the bar and two restaurants – a formal one for tasting menus, and a bistro for more casual fare. We opted for the former and gorged on eight mouthwatering courses; the local squid with black rice and the Pollensa cheese with honey from their bees were highlights for us. My only criticism was the lack of a vineyard view – I looked over at the bistro somewhat enviously as the diners drank in their superior vista.
Down in the terraced gardens there’s a smart spa and some two-bedroom Villa Suites, cleverly built to blend into the wild landscape, for minimal impact on the environment. We enjoyed a romantic sunset walk around here, passing bee hives, donkeys, vines, and veg patches which supply the kitchen, and then pausing among the vines for a view back towards the monastery perching on the hillside – a majestic scene.
Pretty Pollensa is a 5-minute drive away. We spent a leisurely morning wandering the boutique shops and climbing the Via Crucis steps up to Calvari chapel, which has excellent views over town to the bay of Pollensa. Come on a Sunday for the weekly market. Beaches aren’t far away either; there are turquoise coves at Cala San Vicente (10-minute drive), or long sandy stretches at Puerto Pollensa and Puerto Alcudia – lots of boat trips depart from here too (we were itching to try a catamaran cruise). And then there’s the Tramuntana Mountains the other way; I absolutely loved our day following the winding mountain road to Soller (popular with cyclists), which weaves around lakes, forests and cute towns. We chose to end our holiday here, rattling along the cute Soller tram to the coast, and tucking into the best paella ever (topped with scorpion fish and tailed with a perfectly crisp crust) before returning to Palma – an underrated gem with an amazing cathedral.