Casa Cairuçu (pronounced ky-ru-su) is no ordinary house rental. First off, you can only get here by boat: a 15-minute ride from the charming colonial town of Paraty which, incidentally, is one of our favourite spots in Brazil. The views from the wraparound balcony are glorious: over turquoise seas which teem with bright fish and passing turtles, and up to cloud-wreathed peaks behind. There's superb snorkelling and canoeing on your doorstep, and sandy beaches a short walk or boat ride away.
Secondly, has been sustainably built to use as little energy as possible. Solar panels heat the water and light sea breezes provide the air-conditioning (with the help of ceiling fans) - and this on the edge of the rainforest. There are comfortable sofas in the glass-fronted sitting room, colourful art and pocket-sprung mattresses in the 3 bedrooms - all painstakingly boated in by the British-Brazilian owners.
They spend time here every year, which means that you're treated as friends of friends by the lovely housekeeper (who comes in daily), her husband the very experienced boatman, and the rest of the local fishing community (who can sell you fresh snapper, mahi-mahi or shrimps). And, if you want to book a secret restaurant (tucked away on its own island), or clamber up a mini Sugar Loaf Mountain, their English-speaking 'remote' concierge knows every stone, cove and boatman in the Ilha Grande bay. Casa Cairucu offers enough adventures directly from the house to easily keep folk entertained for a week or more.
Highs
- The sea in front of the house is warm and clean, perfect for swimming, snorkelling or dolphin-spotting from the veranda
- It's 5 minutes' walk to the sandy, protected Praia do Bare, where kids play football on the beach; 10 minutes by boat to the idyllic Praia Vermelha
- It's great for adventurous families (2 rooms can connect and 2 can be twin-bedded), and kitted out for little ones too (cot, monitor, high chair; the owners have young children)
- Equally, it's an amazing honeymoon venue for a nature-loving couple; shut off 2 bedrooms and you'd have it all to yourself without rattling around
- With just 3 nights minimum, and free extras (pre-stay shop, 2 transfers, and a boat excursion for i-escape guests), it need not be as expensive as you think
Lows
- The combination of partial self-catering and no road access will not suit everyone: you need to plan your shopping carefully, or take boats to local restaurants (some will collect you for free)
- The friendly housekeeper, Adriana, speaks very little English, but she knows the ropes for breakfast, clothes washing and cleaning (and she'll prepare lunch and dinner if you want for no charge)
- Being in the rainforest, there is lots of insect life (though fewer mosquitoes than Paraty), and the birds can get a bit noisy (especially the local kingfisher!)
- You need to know how things work and the concierge will show you on arrival, and lend you a local cellphone in case you need to call him during your stay
- There's WiFi for emails and browsing, but it is slow
- Travel cot
- Baby monitor
- Highchair
- Baby bath
Some equipment may need to be requested in advance
- Beach house
- 4 bedrooms
- Self-catering; chef on request
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Babysitting
- Creche / Kids Club
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Concierge Service
- Laundry Service
- Remote concierge
- Kayaks
- Fishing rods
Rooms
There are 3 double/twin sea-facing bedrooms, all with ensuite bathrooms. In addition, there's a further single room on the other side of the house, with a bathroom next door, which might suit a nanny or older child. The main bedroom is slightly bigger than the other 2, and its bathroom has a glass wall with side views to garden and sea from the shower.
All of them have beautiful hardwood floors and white walls, with just a scattering of colourful local paintings and bright turquoise or lime green bedspreads. It's a clean and minimal effect which serves to emphasise the stunning outlooks to sea and rainforest.
Besides the sea breeze, all have eco-fans which keep them cool without draining the electricity. There's no air-con, but the louvred sliding doors mean you can sleep with them closed but still get a through draft.
Beds are comfortable, with pocket sprung mattresses, Egyptian cotton sheets and double tiered pillows; you can ask for wraparound mosquito nets if you want, though usually it is not too bad mozzie-wise. There are open wardrobes (high humidity means enclosed spaces are not ideal), wicker bedside tables - and not much furniture besides; but, when you consider that everything had to come in by boat, it's more than adequate.
Bathrooms have shower wetrooms, mosaic tiled floors and big mirrors over a stylish white porcelain sink. Water is solar heated and more than hot enough, with a backup boiler for occasional cold spells.
Features include:
- Mosquito net
- Washing machine
- WiFi
Eating
The owners used to live here for several months a year, so you can be sure to find those helpful extras like graters, squeezers, chopping boards, condiments etc in the fully equipped kitchen. The house has its own spring and filter tap (in the kitchen) so you don't need to buy bottled water.
A pre-arrival shopping service is included at the beginning of your stay. Let the owners know what you’d like (they’ll send you a list to help) and you just pay supermarket prices. If you're not sure where to start, owners Simon and Fabiola have put together a list of some of their favourite Brazilian dishes: you choose what takes your fancy and they will buy the ingredients and supply the recipes... a really helpful touch, and it saves a fortune compared to eating out in Paraty every night. Or Adriana the housekeeper can also help prepare at no extra cost.
Adriana prepares your choice of breakfast every morning - usually pao de queijo (cheese rolls), fruit, toast, eggs, coffee etc. The concierge can advise on the best shops and supermarkets in Paraty, and you're given the phone numbers and going rates for all the local boatmen, although most guests go out with experienced boatman Luis, Adriana’s husband.
If you're daunted by the idea of self-catering by boat, Adriana can pre-prepare the evening meal for you - fresh fish (peixe), squid (lula) or shrimps (camarao) are highlights.
Praia Vermelha has a restaurant on the beach that will take you back to the house by boat for a few Reals. Alternatively take a boat into Paraty, which has plenty of restaurants throughout the year. There are no restaurants open at night (only for lunch) within walking distance of the house.
Features include:
- Barbecue
- Chef on request
- Dinner by arrangement
- Food blender
- Fridge
- Full kitchen
- Hob or stove
- Microwave
- Oven
- Shopping service
- Toaster
Activities
- Swim, snorkel, canoe or stand up paddle through the warm, turquoise waters (2 Stand Up Paddles & 2 double kayaks and lifejackets are provided) along the coast and to nearby islands; the shore is rocky, but there's a pier, and a few minutes' walk away is the sandy beach and hamlet of Praia do Bare
- An island nearby has a population of endangered golden lion tamarin monkeys (take bananas!)
- Look for kingfishers and hummingbirds, or even dolphins in the bay; or take a boat (and a local) for some lazy fishing
- 10 minutes by boat (or a 30-40 minute walk) is the stunning sandy beach of Praia Vermelha; and there are other, even more secluded coves on small islands within the bay (look out for turtles and starfish)
- Take a boat into Unesco-listed Paraty : this charmingly preserved 17th-century colonial town, a former port for the gold mined in Minas Gerais, has cobbled streets, coloured houses, time-worn churches, trendy art galleries, artisan shops and quirky cafes with street artists and superb ice cream
- Further afield, you'll find the fjord-like inlet of Mamangua, home to traditional fishermen and the challenging but spectacular summit of Pau de Acucar (like a smaller version of Rio's more famous Sugar Loaf)
- Walks through the rainforest to local beaches are beautiful and take you through local Cairucu villages. The concierge can arrange trips such as sea kayaking excursions, fazenda farm visits, private yoga classes, bird watching walks and waterfall hikes (extra cost)
- Go on a Wild Food Walk with leading Brazilian forager, Jorge Ferreira. He'll help you identify edible plants within the rainforest, and those which have medicinal qualities
- Hike a section of the Caminho de Ouro ('Gold Trail'), which slaves once carried gold along. Local guides will walk with you and explain the history as you go
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Boat trips
- Dolphin watching
- Fishing
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Kayaking
- Museums / galleries
- Private guided tours
- Sailing
- Scuba diving
- Shopping / markets
- Snorkelling
- Swimming
Best Time to go
This stunning stretch of coast - the Costa Verde (green coast) - earns its name from the rain which can arrive at almost any time of year, though generally in no more than short showers. It tends to be sunniest from the end of March to November (though it can be quite cool at night from June to September). We like the shoulder season of April-June - which also attracts low season rates. The warmer but rainier season is November to March, with January and February being especially wet, though hotter too. Christmas, New Year and the February Carnival are extremely popular times - you'll need to book many months ahead, and pay higher rates. There are sea breezes throughout the year; Casa Cairucu is cooler than Paraty which in turn is cooler than Rio.
There are numerous festivals in Paraty throughout the year, the most famous one being FLIP - the international literary festival - in July. Other high times include Festival da Pinga (the Cachaça Festival) in August, the Festival of the Holy Ghost, celebrated 50 days after Easter Sunday, and the spectacular Bloco da Lama mud festival, coinciding with Carnival in February.
There are numerous festivals in Paraty throughout the year, the most famous one being FLIP - the international literary festival - in July. Other high times include Festival da Pinga (the Cachaça Festival) in August, the Festival of the Holy Ghost, celebrated 50 days after Easter Sunday, and the spectacular Bloco da Lama mud festival, coinciding with Carnival in February.
Our Top Tips
Bioluminescence in the water usually makes a dip off the jetty / deck at night like swimming in a sea of stars. It is a magical experience.
Straight across the bay is the excellent cachacaria (small rum factory) of Maria Izabel, where you can enjoy a short tour - and a leisurely tasting!
Come to Paraty around Full Moon and you'll experience the famous flooding phenomenon: tides rise and water pours through the historic district, creating a mini Venice for a few hours.
Straight across the bay is the excellent cachacaria (small rum factory) of Maria Izabel, where you can enjoy a short tour - and a leisurely tasting!
Come to Paraty around Full Moon and you'll experience the famous flooding phenomenon: tides rise and water pours through the historic district, creating a mini Venice for a few hours.
Location
Casa Cairucu is a short boat ride (10-30 mins, depending on the boat) from the colonial town of Paraty, which is halfway between Rio and São Paulo in southeast Brazil - approximately a 4-hour car journey from either.
By Air:
Fly to Rio's Galeão-Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport (240km away) or São Paulo's Guarulhos International Airport (290km away). For airlines serving these airports, please click on the links below. Access from São Paulo airport is easier because the airport is on the highway which leads here (so no need to cross the city).
From the Airport
Arrange a transfer from Rio or São Paulo - Paraty Tours offers good and frequent transfers in minibuses from airports / Rio hotels, or see below.
By Bus:
Air-conditioned coaches depart every few hours from the bus stations in Rio and São Paulo to Paraty (São Paulo is trickier as buses are less frequent). Travel first class because the difference in fares is minimal, but big in terms of comfort levels. The best options from Rio are the Costa Verde buses, which travel regularly from Novo Rio Rodoviara bus terminal (take a taxi there from the airport).
By Car:
There's not much point having a car during your stay, as the house itself is on a remote stretch of coast, a few km from the nearest road. If you want to explore the area around Paraty, there are 2 car rental companies in town, as well as taxis.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Brazil and getting around
Airports:
- Rio de Janeiro 236.0 km GIG
- São Paulo Guarulhos 290.0 km GRU
Other:
- Beach 0.2 km
- Shops 6.0 km
- Restaurant 4.0 km