Casa Cairucu
Paraty, Rio de Janeiro Environs, Brazil
Casa Cairuçu (pronounced ky-ru-su) is no ordinary house rental. First off, you can only get here by boat: a 15-minute ride from the charming colonial town of Paraty which, incidentally, is one of our favourite spots in Brazil. The views from the wraparound balcony are glorious: over turquoise seas which teem with bright fish and passing turtles, and up to cloud-wreathed peaks behind. There's superb snorkelling and canoeing on your doorstep, and sandy beaches a short walk or boat ride away.
Secondly, has been sustainably built to use as little energy as possible. Solar panels heat the water and light sea breezes provide the air-conditioning (with the help of ceiling fans) - and this on the edge of the rainforest. There are comfortable sofas in the glass-fronted sitting room, colourful art and pocket-sprung mattresses in the 3 bedrooms - all painstakingly boated in by the British-Brazilian owners.
They spend time here every year, which means that you're treated as friends of friends by the lovely housekeeper (who comes in daily), her husband the very experienced boatman, and the rest of the local fishing community (who can sell you fresh snapper, mahi-mahi or shrimps). And, if you want to book a secret restaurant (tucked away on its own island), or clamber up a mini Sugar Loaf Mountain, their English-speaking 'remote' concierge knows every stone, cove and boatman in the Ilha Grande bay. Casa Cairucu offers enough adventures directly from the house to easily keep folk entertained for a week or more.
Secondly, has been sustainably built to use as little energy as possible. Solar panels heat the water and light sea breezes provide the air-conditioning (with the help of ceiling fans) - and this on the edge of the rainforest. There are comfortable sofas in the glass-fronted sitting room, colourful art and pocket-sprung mattresses in the 3 bedrooms - all painstakingly boated in by the British-Brazilian owners.
They spend time here every year, which means that you're treated as friends of friends by the lovely housekeeper (who comes in daily), her husband the very experienced boatman, and the rest of the local fishing community (who can sell you fresh snapper, mahi-mahi or shrimps). And, if you want to book a secret restaurant (tucked away on its own island), or clamber up a mini Sugar Loaf Mountain, their English-speaking 'remote' concierge knows every stone, cove and boatman in the Ilha Grande bay. Casa Cairucu offers enough adventures directly from the house to easily keep folk entertained for a week or more.
Highs
- The sea in front of the house is warm and clean, perfect for swimming, snorkelling or dolphin-spotting from the veranda
- It's 5 minutes' walk to the sandy, protected Praia do Bare, where kids play football on the beach; 10 minutes by boat to the idyllic Praia Vermelha
- It's great for adventurous families (2 rooms can connect and 2 can be twin-bedded), and kitted out for little ones too (cot, monitor, high chair; the owners have young children)
- Equally, it's an amazing honeymoon venue for a nature-loving couple; shut off 2 bedrooms and you'd have it all to yourself without rattling around
- With just 3 nights minimum, and free extras (pre-stay shop, 2 transfers, and a boat excursion for i-escape guests), it need not be as expensive as you think
Lows
- The combination of partial self-catering and no road access will not suit everyone: you need to plan your shopping carefully, or take boats to local restaurants (some will collect you for free)
- The friendly housekeeper, Adriana, speaks very little English, but she knows the ropes for breakfast, clothes washing and cleaning (and she'll prepare lunch and dinner if you want for no charge)
- Being in the rainforest, there is lots of insect life (though fewer mosquitoes than Paraty), and the birds can get a bit noisy (especially the local kingfisher!)
- You need to know how things work and the concierge will show you on arrival, and lend you a local cellphone in case you need to call him during your stay
- There's WiFi for emails and browsing, but it is slow