Casas do Coro
Meda, Central Portugal & Beiras, Portugal
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Marialva is one of those places where, on arrival, your first reaction will be an open-jawed 'Wow!'. The crenellations of its lofty fortress, narrow cobbled streets and cluster of granite-built houses feel strangely out-of-time, harking back to an age when this was the frontline of battle between Spain and a newly born kingdom of Portugal. Nowadays the spirit of the place is far less aggressive: with a population of just 30 souls and another 40 or so when Casas do Coro is at full tilt, the village is dreamily peaceful and conducive to quiet contemplation of the soaring vistas out across the surrounding plain.
Casas do Coro is a collection of granite houses and eco cabins, with a shared pool, garden and restaurant. A couple are cosy hideaways for 2, but most are bigger and split into self-contained rooms with kitchenettes, or have a shared kitchen for a group rental. But we'd forget self-catering - what makes a stay here doubly special is the inspired cuisine: dine here on a balmy summer night and the memory will stay with you for years to come.
Casas do Coro is a collection of granite houses and eco cabins, with a shared pool, garden and restaurant. A couple are cosy hideaways for 2, but most are bigger and split into self-contained rooms with kitchenettes, or have a shared kitchen for a group rental. But we'd forget self-catering - what makes a stay here doubly special is the inspired cuisine: dine here on a balmy summer night and the memory will stay with you for years to come.
Highs
- Marialva is a listed National Heritage site, and the castle ruins are incredible
- Romantic and indulgent; candelit dinners, breakfast served whenever you want, a double daybed area above the pool (stargaze here at night), and an open-air sunset lounge
- Delightful owners and very kind, attentive staff; nothing is too much trouble
- Great food (home cooking with gourmet flourishes); or you can self cater
- Suits both couples and larger groups/families
Lows
- No restaurants or shops in the village
- Not all accommodation has self-catering facilities, and the restaurant doesn't open until 8pm
- Not ideal for toddlers - an unheated pool, lots of unprotected drops and no kids' meals
- Some rooms are flouncy, others a bit tired, but there's such a range of styles that you'll find something you love
- Marialva? You may not have heard of it but this is a fascinating region and just 2.5 hours from Porto
Best time to go
All year round. The Douro has a micro-climate, which massively boosts the quality and style of its wines, and on average, temperatures are higher than in Porto, and rainfall is less. Spring and autumn are the most popular times to go - April-June and September-October.
Our top tips
Be sure to visit the amazing Côa Valley Archaeological Museum and Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1998. The valley is home to some of the world's most extensive open-air Palaeolithic rock art, and the museum, a stunning piece of contemporary architecture in its own right, helps breathe life into these ancient stones with its state-of-the-art video and computerised installations. It provides a thrilling museum experience for kids and adults alike.