Set in Bali’s quiet, beautifully untouched central region, this is the second outpost of Desa Seni and the very best yet. As you drive north from the airport, car parks become paddy fields, hotels become hills and the crowds give way to grazing cattle. Desa Seni Baturiti’s serenity reflects its surroundings: terraced fields, temples, and lush, green jungle that sweeps into mountains – the only sounds are those of birds, cicadas, and monkeys. Mount Catur flanks the distance, blue at dawn and dusk. The location is unparalleled and a very different side to the Bali most visitors see.
Walking into the hotel, past vibrant orange walls, and out into luscious, organic, landscaped gardens, we felt like we had arrived somewhere truly special. The hotel is the stunning product of owner Thomas’ 20+ years in Indonesia, and his love of collecting antiques which now decorate each of the eight carefully renovated, traditional reclaimed teakwood cottages. It manages to blend design and comfort, carefully incorporated into the nature in which it sits, you feel you're in a forest or jungle clearing. Eco-retreat Desa Seni felt to us like the place to reconnect, with yourself and with the nature around you. Stay long enough to order everything on the excellent local and seasonal menu of global delights, it’s utterly delicious. And while away days here doing yoga, learning about permaculture, or relaxing, feeling totally held in tranquil, understated, design-led luxury.
Highs
- A really special location, offering guests the rare opportunity of an unobtrusive glimpse into Indonesian village life whilst staying in a comfortable hotel
- Artful design runs through every inch of the hotel: in the fixtures, fittings, and furniture
- Seasons restaurant serves incredible and inventive food, with superlative breakfasts and proper coffee
- The carefully curated wellness and spa treatments truly deliver, the massages were perhaps the best we’ve ever had; folk come here for the yoga alone
- Eco measures include rainwater collection, local community education initiatives, eco-septic and water purification systems
Lows
- It’s situated near a small local village in central Bali so there isn’t a huge amount to ‘do’ within walking distance
- Very much off the beaten track so allow some time to reach the property
Best time to go
April to October is the dry season when most flock to Bali, but Desa Seni Baturiti would work wonders for the soul, rain or shine. You'd need a couple of nights here for the full experience.
Our top tips
Walk around the village as the sun’s coming up or going down. We felt like we got to see a side of Bali often unseen, immersing ourselves in village life and the nature surrounding it.