Hidden down a driveway lined with ivy, this is a haven of peace in amongst Italy’s scooter-whirring, sight-packed capital. Glossy-leafed orange trees shade the scrunchy-gravel courtyard at its centre - a glorious summery retreat with flowers and myrtle bushes. Around it are 18 bungalow-style rooms and suites. It's a conversion of a 17th-century convent, and though it has been modernised, the peaceful atmosphere remains.
Trastevere is Rome’s loveliest and liveliest neighbourhood; a cobbled maze of bars, restaurants and small shops. Like Paris' Left Bank, you'll find long-term locals mingling with map-flapping tourists, American students, boho alternative types and the occasional homeless person with a dog on a string. The district’s café-ringed main piazza, glinting with magnificent medieval mosaics, is just around the corner. Despite its prime location, Santa Maria is peaceful, the only disturbances being church bells, courtyard chatter and the occasional vivid Italian discussion from the flower-laden apartments around.
Highs
- During our latest revisit, we couldn't tear ourselves away from the courtyard and roof terrace; this is a gorgeous and peaceful retreat in the midst of a busy city
- A wonderful location within walking distance of many sights, plus great restaurants and bars
- The huge suites are great for families - some will sleep up to 6. There are double, triple and quadruple rooms, too
- Staff are friendly and extremely helpful
- Excellent breakfasts are served under the orange trees in fair weather, or in the cosy breakfast room. Plus a well-stocked wine bar
Lows
- Windows open onto the courtyard so if you want privacy you’ll have to draw the curtains
- Don't expect designer décor: this place is all about pretty pastels and rustic charm - photos can't capture the scent of citrus trees or the sound of birdsong
- The communal living area is a little dark; we'd rather lounge in the gardens
- Two of the bedrooms (Junior Attic Suite and Attic Suite) have very low ceilings
- The Attic Suite has skylights rather than windows, and rooms vary dramatically in terms of size and layout
- Baby cots
- High chair
- Potty
Some equipment may need to be requested in advance
Babysitting is available by arrangement.
There are child-friendly cafés nearby (this is Italy, after all!), plus takeaways too. Dinner is served late by UK standards but the pre-dinner snacks could serve as a high tea for little ones.
- Bikes available to borrow
- Free WiFi
- Children's books and board games
- Walking distance from the Forum
- Explora, the Rome Children's Museum, is a 15-minute drive away
- Catacombs
- Take a gladiator tour at the Colosseum
- Vittoriano Monument for views from the top
- Ice cream parlours
- Villa Borghese gardens with zoo, lake and 148 acres to explore
- Boutique Hotel
- 18 rooms
- Breakfast only (walk to restaurants)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Babysitting
- Creche / Kids Club
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
- Courtyard
- Tours
- Car/scooter hire
Rooms
All 18 rooms are arranged around the cloister, with covered walkways running in front of the doors. They have been appended onto the original building, so some of the room shapes are unusual. For example, some ceilings are double height while others are low.
There are 8 Double Rooms, 4 Triple Rooms and a Quadruple Room. Delicate apricot tones give them a cosy glow, and softly mottled walls are enlivened by hand-painted borders. Latticed windows frame the leafy views. Wrought-iron lamp fittings, light terracotta floor tiles, floral bedspreads, pale oak-wood furniture and paintings of Trastevere (by a local artist) complete the picture. Beds are firm and comfortable with plain, soft headboards. One of the Doubles is located at the back of the property and features its own patio; we thought this would be an ideal bolthole for a couple after a little more privacy.
There are also some larger suites which come in all shapes and sizes (sleeping 3-6 people). The Junior Suite consists of a double bedroom and a living room, which can be made up as a twin room on request. The Junior Attic Suite is a duplex sleeping up to 4; it resembles a cottage, with quaint low ceilings upstairs (not for the tall). The Senior Suite is an even larger duplex that will sleep 6, with the upper floor (again, you might have to stoop) reached via a wrought-iron spiral staircase. The Attic Suite (sleeps 5) in 2 adjoining rooms, with low slanted ceilings embedded with skylights.
All rooms have flatscreen satellite TVs, WiFi and sparkling (though not huge) bathrooms with showers and/or bathtubs.
Features include:
- Hairdryer
- In-room treatments available
- Minibar
- Safe box
- WiFi
Eating
The great buffet breakfast is served in what was once an artisan’s workshop, with a huge stone fireplace and arched ceilings, or on the sunny terrace surrounded by orange trees. The spread includes scrambled eggs, cheeses, cold meats, breads, yoghurts, cereals, pastries, cakes and fresh fruit. There’s also a choice of teas and coffees, including freshly made cappuccino.
There's a well-stocked wine cellar and bar open all day until 11pm; guests gather in the evening for Happy Hour for some nibbles and to share stories from the day.
Trastevere is one of the best areas of Rome for beguiling eateries to suit all budgets. Try rough-and-ready Da Augusto, dig into some of Rome’s best pizza at Dar Poeta, or indulge in Sicilian dishes at more refined Osteria La Gensola.
Features include:
- Bar
- Breakfast
- Kids' meals
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Visit Piazza Santa Maria and its exquisitely mosaicked church, just around the corner
- Nearby Santa Cecilia has a moving sculpture of the martyr’s perfectly preserved body, as it was when her grave was opened over 1000 years after her death
- Meander through the tranquil, exotic Botanical Gardens; see the neighbouring art collection of Palazzo Corsini and the Raphael frescoes at Villa Farnesina opposite
- Borrow bikes from the hotel and explore on 2 wheels
- Walk up to San Pietro in Monteiro and visit the tiny Bramante tempietto, a classical masterpiece fitted snugly into a cloister
- Wander further up the hill and overlook Rome from the dizzy heights of Gianicolo
- Take the crossing over to the boat-shaped Tiber Island, the world's smallest inhabited island, in the middle of the river
- Explore the major sites by taking one of the many tours available. The hotel can arrange city walks from 1-4 hours, visits to the Vatican, and small-group tours (all guides are licensed and speak fluent English)
- After all that exertion, relax in the sun on the rooftop terrace overlooking the citrus trees and cute townhouse balconies
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cycling
- Historical sites
- Language courses
- Museums / galleries
- Nightlife
- Private guided tours
- Shopping / markets
- Traditional cultures
Best Time to go
Anytime, but September, October, April and May have the best weather - sunny skies but not too hot. However, they are also high season (and busy). It’s very hot in July and August, but also vibrant, with free open-air festivals. In August some businesses close (though not in the tourist centre).
Our Top Tips
In summer it’s worth packing a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. Bear in mind Rome is surprisingly cold in winter. A smart outfit is useful for the see-and-be-seen Italian evenings, and some comfortable shoes for pounding the cobbles by day.
Location
Hotel Santa Maria is in the buzzing Trastevere area of central Rome, likened to Paris' Left Bank for its cosmopolitan air.
By Air:
Rome is served by 2 airports: Leonardo da Vinci/Fiumicino (30km), where most international flights arrive, and Ciampino/G.B.Pastine (20km), for domestic and a few international flights. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.
From the Airport
It’s 30 minutes to an hour (depending on traffic) by taxi from either Fiumicino or Ciampino airports. Santa Maria can arrange a taxi transfer for you from the airport. Or you could take public transport (see below).
By Public Transport:
From Fiumicino, there's the FS train to Fara Sabina, which leaves regularly and stops at Trastevere station, a short taxi or tram ride from the hotel. A less handy alternative is the Leonardo Express train to Termini Station which is faster (non-stop) and more expensive, but Termini is further from the hotel. From Ciampino you can catch the airport bus and then the local bus or metro.
By Car:
Taking a car into Rome is no joke, but if you do decide to hire a car, see our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent when you confirm your booking.
More on getting to Italy and getting around
Airports:
- Rome - Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino 30.0 km FCO
- Rome - Ciampino 20.0 km CIA
Other:
- Beach 25.0 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.1 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape