Reviewed by
Abigail Blasi
Hidden down a driveway lined with ivy, this is a haven of peace in amongst Italy’s scooter-whirring, sight-packed capital. Glossy-leafed orange trees shade the scrunchy-gravel courtyard at its centre - a glorious summery retreat with flowers and myrtle bushes. Around it are 18 bungalow-style rooms and suites. It's a conversion of a 17th-century convent, and though it has been modernised, the peaceful atmosphere remains.
Trastevere is Rome’s loveliest and liveliest neighbourhood; a cobbled maze of bars, restaurants and small shops. Like Paris' Left Bank, you'll find long-term locals mingling with map-flapping tourists, American students, boho alternative types and the occasional homeless person with a dog on a string. The district’s café-ringed main piazza, glinting with magnificent medieval mosaics, is just around the corner. Despite its prime location, Santa Maria is peaceful, the only disturbances being church bells, courtyard chatter and the occasional vivid Italian discussion from the flower-laden apartments around.
Trastevere is Rome’s loveliest and liveliest neighbourhood; a cobbled maze of bars, restaurants and small shops. Like Paris' Left Bank, you'll find long-term locals mingling with map-flapping tourists, American students, boho alternative types and the occasional homeless person with a dog on a string. The district’s café-ringed main piazza, glinting with magnificent medieval mosaics, is just around the corner. Despite its prime location, Santa Maria is peaceful, the only disturbances being church bells, courtyard chatter and the occasional vivid Italian discussion from the flower-laden apartments around.
Highs
- During our latest revisit, we couldn't tear ourselves away from the courtyard and roof terrace; this is a gorgeous and peaceful retreat in the midst of a busy city
- A wonderful location within walking distance of many sights, plus great restaurants and bars
- The huge suites are great for families - some will sleep up to 6. There are double, triple and quadruple rooms, too
- Staff are friendly and extremely helpful
- Excellent breakfasts are served under the orange trees in fair weather, or in the cosy breakfast room. Plus a well-stocked wine bar
Lows
- Windows open onto the courtyard so if you want privacy you’ll have to draw the curtains
- Don't expect designer décor: this place is all about pretty pastels and rustic charm - photos can't capture the scent of citrus trees or the sound of birdsong
- The communal living area is a little dark; we'd rather lounge in the gardens
- Two of the bedrooms (Junior Attic Suite and Attic Suite) have very low ceilings
- The Attic Suite has skylights rather than windows, and rooms vary dramatically in terms of size and layout