Reviewed by
Kate Darnton
Need a break from painted palaces? Had your fill of forts? At Lakshman Sagar there’s nary a block-print in sight. Just 12 spacious and gloriously private mud-and-stone cottages nestled amongst 32 acres of rocky hills, surrounding a lake. This is a quiet and intimate eco-retreat, a place for travellers to unwind and recharge. Take a guided nature walk; go for a dip in the crater-like pool; watch the sun set from a terrace lounge or star-gaze by a bonfire on the dam. This place is all about R&R.
The hotel prides itself on its Marwar heritage but keeps a sense of humour about its history. Two 19th-century hunting lodges have been converted into airy dining and lounging spaces, decorated with whimsical touches: alcoves painted candy-floss pink; light fixtures made from milk cans and cooking pots. Your cavernous cottage is full of fun touches, too: our bright orange storage table was once a steel drum; the laundry basket formerly a baby’s hammock. Food, however, is serious business here - the cooks turn out consistently delicious dishes, all of them sophisticated interpretations of regional Rajasthani fare. You’ll return to the chaos of urban India with a full belly and a soothed soul.
The hotel prides itself on its Marwar heritage but keeps a sense of humour about its history. Two 19th-century hunting lodges have been converted into airy dining and lounging spaces, decorated with whimsical touches: alcoves painted candy-floss pink; light fixtures made from milk cans and cooking pots. Your cavernous cottage is full of fun touches, too: our bright orange storage table was once a steel drum; the laundry basket formerly a baby’s hammock. Food, however, is serious business here - the cooks turn out consistently delicious dishes, all of them sophisticated interpretations of regional Rajasthani fare. You’ll return to the chaos of urban India with a full belly and a soothed soul.
Highs
- A romantic, nature-lover's retreat: fresh air, starry skies, walking trails, migratory birds and a lake full of fish
- Total privacy: your own stunning and spacious cottage with private plunge pool (all tucked away from each other)
- An unusual glimpse into rural Rajasthan, it's worth staying 2-3 nights to fully appreciate the calming atmosphere
- Great value - the price is all inclusive and covers several activities (nature walks, pottery, tobacco tasting)
- Delectable and innovative set-menu Rajasthani food served on an open-air terrace overlooking the lake
Lows
- The location is remote - a 2.5-hour drive from Jodhpur Airport - and there are no restaurants or shops nearby
- With its rocky paths, steep steps and high drops, the property is neither wheelchair-accessible nor child-friendly
- Lunch and dinner are pre-set, so you get what you're given (though they can cater for dietary requirements)
- From July-Sept it's not safe to venture out post sunset without a resort escort; this is due to increased wildlife in the area - keep your windows closed at night!
- No WiFi, TVs or phones, and no extra beds
Best time to go
Like most places in Rajasthan, Lakshman Sagar is impossibly hot in the summer. The property is closed in May, June and July and the monsoon rains can last as late as September. Our favourite time is from November to February, when days are sunny and nights delightfully chilly.
Our top tips
Do a mini-tour of i-escape properties in the region; each one is strikingly different. We started off in Udaipur with the deluxe Devi Garh, then drove across a hilly wildlife sanctuary to Lakshman Sagar for 2 nights in nature. Last stop: the stunning Raas, tucked in the shadow of Jodhpur’s magnificent Mehrangarh fort.