Most visitors to Hanoi spend a day or 2 dodging the motorbikes and commercial mayhem in the city’s old quarter before heading out on one of 2 sidetrips - east to Halong Bay or west to Sapa. But thanks to the Mai Chau Lodge, located just a 4-hour drive south of the city, visitors now have an equally memorable, less-touristy option.
The lodge lies like a raft of civility in a sea of rice paddies on a mountain-hemmed valley floor. Immaculately maintained, it has 16 rooms and all modern conveniences - including a lovely pool and mouth-watering restaurant. Yet a 5-minute walk down the rural road next to the lodge brings you to a White Thai village. Here, people live in stilt houses, graze their water buffaloes in the rice fields, and weave beautiful fabrics on simple looms. Near-nightly cultural dances, well-designed tours led by charming and informative guides, and plentiful offerings at mealtimes round out the offerings at this unique lodge, which brings you up-close with some of Vietnam’s earliest and most colourful inhabitants.
Highs
- Location, location. As you descend the steep mountain slopes to the valley floor, you feel like you’re truly arriving at a secret haven
- Appealing choice of rustic hut lily-pond rooms, or more posh and traditional rooms in the main house
- The idyllic pool, capacious hot tub and sauna helps you chill out after a day touring the countryside
- Sunset walks in the surrounding rice fields can’t be beat
- Sustainable tourism principles very evident (100% of staff are local; profound respect for and promotion of local culture)
Lows
- The secluded nature of the property means no pubs, restaurants or karaoke bars nearby. Of course, that’s not necessarily a low
- An overall lack of proficiency with English can make some transactions with the staff tricky, but always full of smiles (google translate goes a long way)
- The transfer from Hanoi is on a group shuttle bus that leaves at 8am sharp - you're out of luck if your plane gets in any later
- Some mixed reports about the food, but we found it excellent
Best time to go
Mai Chau is less rainy and has lower humidity than other northern Vietnamese cities and generally experiences good weather throughout the year. The finest weather of the year extends from September until May. It can be quite cold during winter (from November until end of February) which makes that hot tub all the more appealing. The monsoon prevails from June until September with stronger breezes and higher humidity with limited rainfall. Temperatures are warmer during this time.
Our top tips
Visit the Black Hmong market on Sunday mornings with one of the hotel’s guides for a true National Geographic experience.
Location
Location:
Mai Chau Lodge is located 135km southwest of Hanoi in the Northern province of Hoa Binh. It takes approximately 4 hours to make the drive from Hanoi.
By Air:
The nearest international airport is Hanoi's Noi Bai (170km). Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving it.
From the Airport:
Round-trip transfers can be arranged by the lodge at additional cost. They will pick you up either at the Hanoi airport or your city hotel for the drive.
By Car:
Self-hire car rental would be possible, but not advisable as the roads in northern Vietnam are obstacle ridden.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Vietnam and getting around
Airports:
- Hanoi, Noi Ban 170.0 km HAN
Other:
- Beach 200.0 km
- Shops 1.5 km
- Restaurant 1.5 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests
All a great success in spite of the lake being drained at our time of stay! Service was excellent, transport worked well, room upgraded, food delicious and guide great.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape