Perched way up atop a mountain, overlooking the clouds (and almost everyone else in Slovenia), this place is the ultimate high. Their Slovenian name means "heaven", and it is spot on. You feel like God of all you survey - and the weather plays itself out in extremes: glorious sunshine one day, magnificent storms the next. To the east are snow-capped mountains; to the west, endless valleys trailing down to the Adriatic Sea. The nearest neighbours are 1km down a steep winding road, and the silence is absolute.
When local couple Katja and Bojan stumbled across the flat plateau whilst out for a hike one day, within hours they’d decided to build their home there. This then expanded into an idea for a simple retreat - they didn’t want anything high maintenance; the USP was to be the glorious landscape and relaxed ambiance. Now run by their daughter Maja and her own family, the result is 4 wooden ski-style chalets, each sleeping 2 guests, and an L-shaped main building housing a dining room and wellness centre. Glass-walled fronts mean the views are ever present and wild red deer wander through the surrounding meadows. It’s heady stuff.
Highs
- A perfect place to hole up with a partner and escape the world for a bit - you leave feeling totally high on life
- We love the help-yourself attitude: wine, beers, cheeses, fruit, juices - it’s all included in your B&B price
- Owners Maja and Samo are super-welcoming and genuinely concerned that you have the best time possible
- You’re a short drive from Hisa Franko - arguably the best restaurant in Slovenia
- The three saunas are a perfect tonic after a long hike, or on one of the colder mountain days
Lows
- The isolation - you'll need a car to get around and the local town is pretty desolate
- Only breakfast served and no restaurant onsite; you can self-cater, order meals from a nearby farmhouse, or drive to restaurants
- You’re at the mercy of the weather; if it rains for days you may feel cooped up and frustrated
- The chalets are (deliberately) slightly spartan - to keep your focus on the simple pleasures of the great outdoors
Best time to go
The climate is continental with warm summers (75-80F) and cold winters - some of Slovenia's alpine resorts are ski destinations in winter. The heaviest rainfall is in June and September/October, though sudden rainstorms can occur throughout the year, especially up here.
Our top tips
Stay at least 2 nights in order to really unwind and fully appreciate the glorious setting. The longer you stay, the cheaper the rates become, and the Soca Valley offers a whole host of watersports and hiking to keep you amused.
- Boutique Chalets
- 4 chalets for 2
- Breakfast only (+ drive to restaurants)
- Not suitable
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car essential
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Bicycles Available
Rooms
Four identical chalets line the mountain, their entirely glass fronts maximising the epic views. Better still, each has a private terrace (with wooden table and chairs) perfect for gazing at the scenery over a cup of tea or, as we did, huddling down to admire a magnificent storm.
Inside, the large open-plan living room and kitchen occupy the ground floor (along with the bathroom). Wander upstairs and you’re in the mezzanine attic bedroom. A low double bed maximises the space beneath the eaved ceilings, and a firm mattress holds 2 single duvets - great if you’re always arguing about who steals the covers. Bathrooms are small but perfectly formed: shiny chrome finishes, toiletries, a big heated towel rail and a spacious shower.
Overall, the décor is quite stark, but the feel is clean and minimalist. Contemporary chrome lamps and a small copper bowl provide the only homely touches; we felt it would be nice to add a couple of pictures or the odd piece of decorative art. However, we give it full marks for welcoming extras: waffle bathrobes and full-length mohair robes for winter, bright-red Crocs to wander about in, chocolates to snaffle, and a bowl of dried apple slices (delicious).
Features include:
- Bathrobes
- Central heating
- Minibar
- Safe box
- WiFi
Eating
Unusually, there is no restaurant; instead a variety of food is provided for you to help yourselves at any time.
In the main building, the communal kitchen adjoins a sociable dining area and terrace. Below this is a cellar filled with treats. Locally cured salamis and prosciutto, traditional hard cheeses and crackers are nice for lunch. There are big urns of local wines to wash it down (we preferred the whites); if you’d like something more upmarket, a selection of excellent wines are available on an honesty-bar basis (sold at cost price).
In your chalet, a breakfast of yoghurt, juice, UHT milk, processed cheese and fresh cherries waits in your fridge - perfect for lazy mornings. Muesli, teas and coffees are in the cupboard; wander over to the main building for bread and jams, too.
In the evenings, you’re left to your own devices. You can self-cater in your well-equipped chalet (pots, pans, knives, sieves, a grater, a hob, etc) using produce bought from the supermarket in Kobarid (15 minutes’ drive). Or you can order a 4-course dinner (lunch also available) from a neighbouring farmhouse - traditional, homemade dishes delivered to your chalet door.
Or dine out. We had an unbelievably good meal at the famous Hiša Franko, run by Maja's sister, Ana; local produce cooked in a theatrical way - think dry ice swirling around a martini glass filled with tomato jelly and fresh octopus, or wild herb and flower salad with blueberries and an egg yolk.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Honesty bar
- Kitchenette
Activities
- Hike up the mountain and along the path at the top for fab views of Slovenia on one side and Italy on the other. For something easier, drive to Kobarid and try the loop walk that winds above the Soca river
- Unwind in the wellness centre: bliss out in the classic Finnish sauna, the bio sauna with aromatherapy or the infra sauna with chromotherapy. There's also a small gym for yoga, pilates, and aerobics.
- There are mountain bikes to borrow, hop on and explore the surrounding area - if your lungs can handle the hills!
- Take advantage of the Soca's activities (Maja and Samo will happily advise): take a pony trek through the mountains, go white-water rafting or canoeing along the turquoise Soca river, try your hand at fly fishing, or paraglide over it all
- In winter, the mountains offer excellent skiing and in rainy weather there’s a dairy farm (30 minutes away), where you can see cows being milked and cheese being made; educational stuff (although sensitive stomachs should avoid the tasting session!)
- Visit the excellent Kobarid Museum, which presents the events of WWI that took place on the surrounding Isonzo Front
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cycling
- Fishing
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Kayaking
- Museums / galleries
- Rafting
- Swimming
- Wildlife
Kids
This is an adults-only hotel, with the focus on the tranquility of the natural surroundings. However if you choose to hire out the whole place, children can be accommodated.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The Slovenian Mountain Hideaway is situated near the villages of Irdsko and Livek, in Slovenia's Soca Valley. It’s 20 minutes from Kobarid, 1.5 hours from Trieste (in Italy) and 2.5 hours from Ljubljana.
By Air
Fly into Trieste Aiport, Italy (100km) or Ljubljana Airport (120km).
From the Airport
The owners can arrange a transfer from Ljubljana, but we’d definitely recommend hiring a car as the setting is pretty isolated and you'll feel stranded without one. Driving in Slovenia is a lovely experience; the roads are pretty empty and the scenery stunning.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Slovenia and getting around
Airports:
- Trieste (Italy) 100.0 km TRS
- Ljubljana 120.0 km LJU
Other:
- Beach 60.0 km
- Shops 10.0 km
- Restaurant 8.0 km