Reviewed by
Glenda Richards
Tucked away behind the commanding cathedral, the heart of Barcelona’s Barri Gòtic, is one of the quietest corners of this bustling district. Here, what was once a medieval cemetery is now the shady plaza Sant Felip Neri. Enclosed by its namesake Baroque church, a primary boys school and a shoe museum (!) with a few gypsy guitarists snoozing under the large laburnam tree, this square could only get more eclectic if, say, a boutique hotel opened in it. And that’s exactly what Neri did.
It’s actually the hotel’s trendy restaurant/bar that opens onto the square; the front entrance is off the narrow street of San Sever. Typical of the 18th-century palace Neri was in its former life, its reception area is lofty, grand and made to impress. But not overly so, because the designers have shaken off the onerous formality of its haughty past and created a vibrant, polished and light-filled space that feels truly modern. With its chic interiors, 22 stylish rooms, 6 self-catering apartments and an upscale restaurant, the Neri is at the forefront of the hip, small hotels in Barcelona.
It’s actually the hotel’s trendy restaurant/bar that opens onto the square; the front entrance is off the narrow street of San Sever. Typical of the 18th-century palace Neri was in its former life, its reception area is lofty, grand and made to impress. But not overly so, because the designers have shaken off the onerous formality of its haughty past and created a vibrant, polished and light-filled space that feels truly modern. With its chic interiors, 22 stylish rooms, 6 self-catering apartments and an upscale restaurant, the Neri is at the forefront of the hip, small hotels in Barcelona.
Highs
- Rooms are classy and cool, with comforts including linen and pillow selections, robes and slippers
- Staff are friendly and helpful
- A great location, near the cathedral, the Ramblas and the city's nightlife
- The on-trend restaurant with its stone arches and innovative menu
- The setting is surprisingly quiet for the Barri Gòtic
Lows
- This is the hub of Barcelona's pickpockets' haven, so keep an eye on your wallet
- Rooms are sometimes not made up until late afternoon
- Can be hard to find (we went round in circles) and it's in a pedestrian zone, so contact the hotel if you need luggage assistance for the final 200m
- The restaurant has had a complete makeover since we last visited, so we're yet to try out the new menu
Best time to go
All year, except perhaps the last couple of weeks in August when many of the shops and bars in the Barri Gòtic are shut. The heat in summer (June to September) can be intense, while spring and autumn are generally pleasantly warm and sunny. December to February is chilly and quiet, except for the Christmas and New Year period, which the Catalans embrace with gusto.
Our top tips
The Barri Gòtic is a bit of a maze - try to memorise the map so you don’t spend ages on your way home stumbling up wrong alleyways.