The Perast Hideaway
Perast, Montenegro
Reviewed by
Melissa Burfitt
The tiny settlement of Perast balances between powerful mountains and cerulean sea in the sheltered Bay of Kotor. Often described as the prettiest village in Montenegro, this historic settlement boasts a disproportionate number of Baroque churches and palazzos along its single sea-side road, as well as 2 small islets just off the coast: Ostrvo Sveti Dorde (a private monastery) and Our Lady of the Rocks (a very visitable church and museum).
Climb into the recesses of the village and you’ll find peaceful church gardens, bougainvillea-dressed cottages, rickety little gates and, in the upper reaches, the Perast Hideaway. A simply decorated 1-bedroom haven with painted wooden chests and vintage ceramics, the original stone walls frame a stunning vista over church bells towards the tranquil bay. The homely kitchen invites lazy lunches out of the midday heat, while 2 minutes’ walk away, the fab waterfront restaurants are perfect for carefree romantic dinners.
Climb into the recesses of the village and you’ll find peaceful church gardens, bougainvillea-dressed cottages, rickety little gates and, in the upper reaches, the Perast Hideaway. A simply decorated 1-bedroom haven with painted wooden chests and vintage ceramics, the original stone walls frame a stunning vista over church bells towards the tranquil bay. The homely kitchen invites lazy lunches out of the midday heat, while 2 minutes’ walk away, the fab waterfront restaurants are perfect for carefree romantic dinners.
Highs
- A blissfully quiet village location, yet you’re within easy driving distance of Kotor's Old Town, and just a bit further from Sveti Stefan’s famous beaches and the mountainous national parks
- Gorgeous views from the open-plan living and dining room
- We loved the rustic-chic decor: enamel kitchenware and mismatched ceramics made it feel like a real home-from-home
- Couples seeking a sense of seclusion and escapism will love it here (and it's great value, too!)
- Perast is an easy drive from Dubrovnik airport (approx 1 hour) and the apartment has a parking space close by, so you don't have to leave your car at the entrance of the village (as is the norm)
Lows
- The apartment is compact (40 sq.m.) and simply furnished - as reflected in the price
- You'll need to climb a lot of steps to reach it, which can be tiring in the sunshine, and requires a torch at night (bring your own, just in case)
- The paved garden is behind the apartment so it doesn’t get much sun and lacks views
- No extra beds so not suitable for families
Best time to go
We recommend visiting in spring or early autumn when temperatures are still warm enough for swimming, but it's easier to explore the country's stunning landscape (April-June, Sept-Oct). July and August are popular, but some may find it a little too hot and busy. As autumn progresses into winter, temperatures cool and most visitors are in the area for the outdoor activities rather than the sunshine. Rainstorms become more prevalent and many coastal businesses close, but the nearby Conte restaurant remains open through December and January. From January, visitors tend to be in northern Montenegro for the ski season, and February is very rainy.
Our top tips
Just along the coast, between Perast and Kotor, Stari Mlini nestles at the mouth of the Ljuta river. This 16th-century flour mill has been converted into one of the Bay's most romantic restaurants, with open-air tables, leafy surroundings, bay views and excellent seafood. Dishes don't come cheap, but it's a beautiful spot for a dreamy evening meal.