Polurrian on the Lizard
Mullion, Cornwall, United Kingdom
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Perched on top of a cliff facing the silvery seas and setting sun, this handsome Edwardian building has been around for over 100 years. And it has welcomed its fair share of notables, including Marconi who sent the world's first transatlantic radio signal from nearby Poldhu Cove. But it's since been reborn as a determinedly 21st-century boutique hotel with all the trimmings.
Its 40 bedrooms and 6 villas that scatter the grounds come in a range of sizes - some sleep 2, some sleep 6. The best ones come with sea views, and that is what it's all about here. In the light-filled Vista Lounge, walls of glass reveal a 180-degree vista of the swooshing waves below. Come for a drink here at sunset - it faces west, so you're in for a spectacular show. Elsewhere there's an excellent spa where I had an outstanding neck and back massage. And there are good children's facilities too – pool table & table hockey, huge gardens, play area, two pools: a fantastic complement to the Lizard's sandy beaches (one of them 5 minutes down a stepped path) and subtropical gardens. This is a place to delight all: kids, parents, couples and friends after a slice of Cornish coastal bliss.
Its 40 bedrooms and 6 villas that scatter the grounds come in a range of sizes - some sleep 2, some sleep 6. The best ones come with sea views, and that is what it's all about here. In the light-filled Vista Lounge, walls of glass reveal a 180-degree vista of the swooshing waves below. Come for a drink here at sunset - it faces west, so you're in for a spectacular show. Elsewhere there's an excellent spa where I had an outstanding neck and back massage. And there are good children's facilities too – pool table & table hockey, huge gardens, play area, two pools: a fantastic complement to the Lizard's sandy beaches (one of them 5 minutes down a stepped path) and subtropical gardens. This is a place to delight all: kids, parents, couples and friends after a slice of Cornish coastal bliss.
Highs
- The location: a prime, west-facing spot on the lovely Lizard peninsula, near the pretty harbours of Mullion and Porthleven
- There's an Elemis spa and indoor pool to keep all ages amused if the weather turns
- Plus an outdoor pool and tennis for dry days, not to mention the sandy beach just below
- The villas are perfect for parents plus children, and good value too (book them early!)
- We loved the Vista lounge, with deep sofas, a wood stove and lazy chairs looking out over shimmering seas
Lows
- Restaurant service can be very slow, and we found the breakfast buffet rather limited (though the cooked options were good)
- During school holidays, the hotel is full of families, so don't go then if you want a quiet, romantic break
- You need to pre-book your time in the pool, with sessions limited to 30 minutes each
- With 40 rooms and red-carpeted corridors, it feels more 'hotelly' than some of our smaller Cornish properties
- We gather there is construction on site in spring 2024 with no definite end date; we advise asking about this when booking
Best time to go
The year is clearly split into two: school holidays, when most of the rooms are booked by families, and the rest of year, which attracts a mix of older couples and parents with toddlers or babies. The sea and outdoor pool are normally swimmable from late June to early September. Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are great for coastal hikes without the crowds. You should be prepared for rain at any time of year, though the Lizard is one of the warmest spots in Britain.
Local festivals include children's dances on Flora Day in Helston (early May), Porthleven's raft race (last weekend of September), Mazey Day in Penzance (June) with crowds of pirates carrying ships on their shoulders, Falmouth Oyster Festival (mid October) complete with cookery demos, boat race and children's activities, and Obby Oss Day in Padstow (1 May), when a large black-caped "animal" is led on a jerky dance by a teaser who prods him with a padded stick.
Local festivals include children's dances on Flora Day in Helston (early May), Porthleven's raft race (last weekend of September), Mazey Day in Penzance (June) with crowds of pirates carrying ships on their shoulders, Falmouth Oyster Festival (mid October) complete with cookery demos, boat race and children's activities, and Obby Oss Day in Padstow (1 May), when a large black-caped "animal" is led on a jerky dance by a teaser who prods him with a padded stick.
Our top tips
You don't need to bring much - almost everything is provided (racquets for the tennis court, baby equipment, pool towels, board games etc) - but perhaps bring a short wetsuit for sea swims. Birders should bring binoculars, hikers the 1:25,000 Explorer map of the Lizard (and your National Trust card for parking at Kynance Cove).
You can do a lovely pushchair-friendly 2-3 hour walking or cycling route from Penrose to Porthleven. Park at Penrose Manor House (at a right bend midway from Helston to Porthleven), follow the path down and right (south), past the outhouses, and along the western edge of The Loe lake to the sandy strip of Loe Bar (lovely beach); and then northwest along the South West Coastal path into Porthleven (look out for nesting peregrine falcons along this stretch). There are buses back to Penrose, or you can follow a small lane (Cooper's Lane) from the first houses of Porthleven (1km).
You can do a lovely pushchair-friendly 2-3 hour walking or cycling route from Penrose to Porthleven. Park at Penrose Manor House (at a right bend midway from Helston to Porthleven), follow the path down and right (south), past the outhouses, and along the western edge of The Loe lake to the sandy strip of Loe Bar (lovely beach); and then northwest along the South West Coastal path into Porthleven (look out for nesting peregrine falcons along this stretch). There are buses back to Penrose, or you can follow a small lane (Cooper's Lane) from the first houses of Porthleven (1km).