Santa Teresa Hotel
Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro City, Brazil
Reviewed by
Meg Baber
Opened in 2009 after years of painstaking restoration, this fabulous hotel soon became the leading light in Santa Teresa, and the first Relais & Chateaux member in Rio. After a change of ownership and its subsequent incorporation into Accor's boutique MGallery portfolio, it still remains one of the most tranquil and stylish bases in this effervescent and bewitching city. We don't normally select chain hotels, but this is one of those rare exceptions.
In a comparatively small package (just 44 rooms), you get a winning combo of unrivalled cuisine, great spa treatments, fantastic service and glorious views from the pool deck. Interiors combine neo-colonial décor with a celebration of Brazil’s native art. Every resource and material has been sourced from within Latin America, apart from the US beds - which are so comfortable that you really can't quibble. On your doorstep is an artsy neighbourhood - compared by some to Montmartre in Paris - bursting with laidback bars, galleries and crumbling mansions. Overall, despite the international brand, the hotel still manages to feel unique and refreshingly Brazilian: friendly, chic and full of creative energy.
In a comparatively small package (just 44 rooms), you get a winning combo of unrivalled cuisine, great spa treatments, fantastic service and glorious views from the pool deck. Interiors combine neo-colonial décor with a celebration of Brazil’s native art. Every resource and material has been sourced from within Latin America, apart from the US beds - which are so comfortable that you really can't quibble. On your doorstep is an artsy neighbourhood - compared by some to Montmartre in Paris - bursting with laidback bars, galleries and crumbling mansions. Overall, despite the international brand, the hotel still manages to feel unique and refreshingly Brazilian: friendly, chic and full of creative energy.
Highs
- The restaurant, Térèze, with its delicious global cuisine, pastoral yet elegant interiors and sweeping views
- Le Spa - this neighbourhood's first, and one of Rio's best
- The 25m pool, with its lounge bar and awesome views up to the mountains and down over Guanabara Bay
- Just a minute's walk from Largo dos Guimarães, the centre of Santa Teresa
- We loved the extra touches when we stayed: free Havaianas wrapped in a pretty box, fresh orchids, welcome drinks on arrival
Lows
- The hotel hosts weddings most weekends, so it can get a little noisy, especially around the pool
- It's a 15-20 minute taxi ride from Rio's beaches
- It's expensive for the area
- Given the rather dilapidated barrio, you might feel self-conscious emerging onto the streets from such an exclusive, upmarket hotel
Best time to go
Visit at any time of year. December to February are the busiest, most humid and most expensive months, but also the most atmospheric owing to the New Year and Carnaval celebrations. June, July and August are the coolest months, but also the driest.
Our top tips
Take time to admire the Brazilian arts and crafts scattered throughout the hotel - a small selection is available for sale at the mini boutique by reception. And, at the end of July, Santa Teresa's annual 3-day Open Door Arts Festival takes place, when about 75 artists open their studios to visitors.