Santanyi Townhouses
Santanyi, Eastern Mallorca, Spain
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Most visitors to Mallorca flock to the beach hotels, but there's a lot to be said for staying inland in one of its lovely, unpretentious, honey-coloured market towns. Especially when that town is Santanyi, tucked away in the island's southeast corner, but only 10 minutes' drive from some of its most idyllic turquoise coves. You feel far from the crowds, yet on your doorstep are trendy tapas bars, beautiful boutiques and a stunning stretch of coast.
By happy coincidence, it's also home to 2 beautifully restored and lovingly decorated townhouses, owned by German-born (but locally resident) architect-designer duo Maren and Peter Oehm. They poured their heart and soul into the project, and it shows. Moon House has gorgeous bespoke bathtubs made of smooth marmolina; Sea House has huge pastel artworks by Maren herself; both have airy beamed ceilings and witty chandeliers and box-sprung mattresses. Whichever you choose, you get 3 bedrooms, a high-spec kitchen, a cool indoor living-dining space, and - jewel in the crown - a secluded internal courtyard shaded by a palm or quince tree, with a gurgling plunge pool and plenty of outdoor furniture for lazy lounging. Chic, bohemian village life at its Mallorcan best.
By happy coincidence, it's also home to 2 beautifully restored and lovingly decorated townhouses, owned by German-born (but locally resident) architect-designer duo Maren and Peter Oehm. They poured their heart and soul into the project, and it shows. Moon House has gorgeous bespoke bathtubs made of smooth marmolina; Sea House has huge pastel artworks by Maren herself; both have airy beamed ceilings and witty chandeliers and box-sprung mattresses. Whichever you choose, you get 3 bedrooms, a high-spec kitchen, a cool indoor living-dining space, and - jewel in the crown - a secluded internal courtyard shaded by a palm or quince tree, with a gurgling plunge pool and plenty of outdoor furniture for lazy lounging. Chic, bohemian village life at its Mallorcan best.
Highs
- We loved the stylish interiors of Moon House: linen-dressed beds and gorgeous Moroccan lamps under lime-washed beams
- Sea House is more homely - perfect for a family with younger kids, plus a separate granny flat if you want to bring the grandparents
- Both have lovely terraces for sunbathing, a plunge pool for cooling off in, and alfresco dining
- Kitchens are, as you might expect, very high quality; and there are great restaurants along the road if you're feeling lazy
- You're 5km from the family-friendly sands of Cala Santanyi, and the cliff-ringed turquoise waters of Cala s'Almunia
Lows
- These are typical Mallorcan townhouses: quite dark, with no real garden, set on a (quiet) lane
- The plunge pools are small: for dipping rather than swimming
- If you're coming with friends, be aware that most bedrooms are doubles (not twins)
- The nearby beaches can get extremely busy in summer; plans are afoot to restrict car access
- There's a minimum 4-night stay (but arrival and departure days are flexible); and a sizeable one-off cleaning fee (charged separately)
Best time to go
The houses are open all year, and each season has its merits. Spring (April-May) and autumn (mid September-October) are our top tip, the perfect compromise between warmth and tranquility. In summer, the houses' plunge pools and thick stone walls will keep you cool (there are also fans but no A/C); beaches are crowded in July-August, so aim for June or early September if you can. Being in the heart of an active town, with good heating and insulation, the houses make an attractive off-season option, too.
Our top tips
Two artisanal gems: Vinos Artesanos Binissalem (round the corner in Santanyi) where Asuncion dispenses her hard-earned oenological prowess for a couple of Euros per litre; and the unbeatable Grimalt (in Es Llombards) for wonderful Mallorcan cheeses, all from cows' milk, and matured for 45-90 days.
To avoid traffic restrictions, ask Maren about the hourly shuttle bus from Santanyi to Cala d'Es Moro. Or follow the small coastal trail from the end of Cami de Cala Llombards.
To avoid traffic restrictions, ask Maren about the hourly shuttle bus from Santanyi to Cala d'Es Moro. Or follow the small coastal trail from the end of Cami de Cala Llombards.