There's something primeval about the north coast of Madeira. Gnarled mountains cloaked in dense laurisilva forest tumble past steep valleys into the Atlantic Ocean, with a few scattered smallholdings perched on what little flat land there is. Descending a single track lane below Boaventura, I felt as if I'd gone back a decade with each hairpin bend. So I was all the more astonished to find this new, eco-minded micro-resort, tucked between terraced vineyards and a triangle of foaming sea.
The only sign you've arrived is a minimalist grey cube house (the 'Villa'). Beyond that are three more self-catering suites (or 'Wine Houses') tucked inside the tiered mountainside, one on each level for maximum privacy. Each has a cosy sitting room with kitchenette, a kingsize bedroom with freestanding bathtub, and an all-glass, oak-slatted facade facing the quasi-Amazonian jungle opposite. Outside are fat beanbags and a parasolled table for leisurely breakfasts or starlit dinners. And on the bottom level, perched above a mini gorge, is a sleek little heated pool and a secret sauna - utter bliss after a day's hiking.
Terrabona is the passion project of Marco and Maria Joao, two charismatic ex-bankers based in Funchal, who will put the final sparkle on your stay with informal wine tastings (from their own harvest), sociable weekend suppers, a yoga session, or a sunset cruise on their private yacht. A spectacular and truly unique escape.
Highs
- Utterly romantic, and perfect honeymoon material within 4 hours’ flight of the UK, at any time of year
- The suites are sumptuous and eco-friendly: like a blissful burrow with 5* comforts
- It offers a new level of secluded luxury on an island known more for mainstream winter sun
- We loved soaking in our windowside tub, with eucalyptus and rosemary oils
- Dramatic coastal, mountain and levada hikes abound; or borrow e-bikes if you prefer
Lows
- This not a cheap holiday - but it's worth every euro
- No kids under 16: this is a couples' retreat
- It's 45 mins from the airport, or an hour from Funchal, the last part on winding roads
- And 15 mins' drive to (good) restaurants, unless you cook for yourself or book dinner with your hosts
Best time to go
Madeira is a year-round island, and Terrabona is open throughout, except for about a month in Jan-Feb when Marco and Maria take a well earned break. It's at its warmest - and generally busiest - in the European summer (June-September), which is the best time for diving and watersports. April-May and October-November are also popular with hikers, botanists and other active types. But Terrabona will never feel busy, being hidden away in one of the most secluded spots on the island. Don't rule out December and March, which are still mild (often 20-25 C), with spectcular Christmas celebrations in Funchal.
Our top tips
Try and coincide with one of their thrice-weekly communal dinners, where guests mingle over Marco's wines and Maria's home-cooked food. Ours was a highlight (see Eating). And we got to hear more about their back story. Turns out Marco’s childhood dream was to run a laid-back surfing retreat with reggae music and simple wooden cabins; but as he matured, so did his vision - and this is the result. We all agreed that the surf world's loss is the discerning couple's gain.
- Eco-Retreat & Winery
- 4 houses for 2-4
- Self-catering (meals on request)
- Over 16s only
- Open all year
- Heated Pool
- Sauna
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car essential
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Bicycles Available
- Laundry Service
- Electric car charger
Rooms
Tucked into the terraced vineyards are three Wine Houses - sumptuous self-catering suites for couples - and, at the top, a two-bedroom Family Villa (a bit misleading as they only accept over 16s) which is great for two couples travelling together.
The Wine Houses are all equally lovely, secluded and romantic - like five-star burrows in the hillside. Each is set on its own level, with sliding windows along the front to let the views in, plus curtains and oak slats for privacy and shade. Inside, there’s a comfy sitting room with kitchen facilities; a spacious double bedroom with freestanding tub, and between them a tiled bathroom with monsoon shower. So no shortage of space, even if you’re staying a week or more.
It’s all impeccably thought out: cork floors to keep you warm barefoot, a choice of four pillows (soft, hard, grain, contour), a portable lamp which doubles as a Bluetooth speaker and wine bottle holder. At bathtime: rosemary and eucalyptus oils for lazy soaks, organic shower gels and spare bamboo toothbrushes from trendy 8950. Plus: homemade cake and a decanter of 10-year-old sweet Madeira wine to welcome you in style.
If you book the Family Villa - a dark grey, contemporary ‘chalet’ up by the road - you get the same attention to detail spread over two storeys: a double-height living-dining space, an upstairs master bedroom with ensuite shower room, and a replica bedroom downstairs. Alongside a few traditional family-heirloom pieces of furniture, there are pendant bauble lamps and stylised pencil drawings by Teresa Goncalves Lobo, including a bird’s nest for cosy vibes. Overall, we found it more striking but less cosy than the others: better for two couples or two (non-sharing) friends.
Features include:
- Bathrobes
- Fan
- Fireplace
- Hairdryer
- Terrace/balcony
- Toiletries
- WiFi
Eating
It's self-catering with benefits here. As you’d expect, each suite or villa has a kitchenette with all you need for a self-assembly breakfast or a simple dinner: a two-ring induction hob, oven, pots and pans, kettle and coffee machine, toaster and juicer, a few utensils (grater but no egg cups, for example), stemmed glasses and a sample of their own wines in the fridge.
Also in your fridge - here’s the first benefit - are delicious breakfast & picnic supplies, including local cheeses and salamis in airtight glass boxes, passionfruit and papaya jams made by a villager, yoghurt and granola made by Maria, fresh eggs and exotic fruits. And warm rolls are delivered to your door each morning. Take it all outside to your garden table as the morning sun warms the valley, and enjoy.
The second benefit are thrice-weekly opt-in dinners cooked and hosted by Marco and Maria, where guests mingle for wine tasting, star gazing, multilingual chit-chat and authentic Portuguese cuisine. We grazed on platters of Alentejo cheeses and cured pork slivers with chilli jams and crisp sercial whites from their latest harvest; then moved onto Maria’s tuna, sweet potato and pipinella (marrow) bake with a very moreish salad of quinoa and almonds. Wonderful.
When it comes to eating out, you can either drive 5-10 mins up the road to simple (m)eateries in the village of Boaventura - Penalti is probably the pick of the three - or drive 15-20 mins to a couple of fine coastal restaurants. We rate Calhau de Sao Jorge for their nine-hour slow-smoked beef or oxtail briskets, as well as superb trout tartare and scabbardfish with limpet rice, plus some very fine wines to boot. Come at lunch and you can dip in their outdoor swimming pool - or river pool or ocean. The other direction, Baia dos Juncos also comes recommended.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Dinner by arrangement
- Food blender
- Fridge
- Full kitchen
- Hob or stove
- Microwave
- Oven
- Toaster
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- Explore the rugged Atlantic coastline on your doorstep: a breathtaking cobbled paths runs from Arco de Sao Jorge to the bay below the hotel, while another circular trail (see alltrails.com) leads from Boaventura into the interior and back along a tranquil levada
- Or borrow one of their shiny e-bikes to follow the old coast road to Sao Vicente or Porto Moniz and back; they can cover 80-100km, depending what power level you set
- Marco knows a secret river pool near Lombo do Urzal where, in summer, you can bathe among dragonflies and wild strawberries
- Or hire a mountain guide to take you up to the high peaks, often wreathed in cloud, where dramatic trails are cut into the cliff faces
- Book an Monday yoga session by the pool: while you stretch and inhale, they’ll prepare and deliver a vegan dinner with detox juices to your suite
- Longer stayers might fancy a sunset cruise with M&M on their yacht, sailing from Funchal marina along the sculpted volcanic coastline
- This is a great spot for bird-watching or star-gazing - there are binoculars and telescope to borrow
- Leave time for a swim in their small heated pool overhanging the valley, or a private sauna to ease your trail-weary muscles
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Art classes
- Birdwatching
- Canyoning
- Cycling
- Fishing
- Hiking
- Sailing
- Stargazing
- Swimming
- Vineyard tours
- Wine tasting
Kids
This is primarily a couples’ retreat - Terrabona only accepts guests over 16 - due partly to the numerous unfenced drops between terraces. If coming with older kids you could book the Family Villa which has two double bedrooms. Note that there are no extra beds available.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Terrabona Nature & Vineyards is near the village of Boaventura, on Madeira's north coast, about a 1-hour drive from the town of Funchal.
By Air
Funchal airport has plenty of scheduled, budget and charter flights from airports across the UK and Europe.
From the Airport
It's about 40km (45 minutes' drive) from the airport to the hotel. You could arrange airport transfers, but you'll almost certainly want a hire car to explore the area and drive out to dinner, as there's nothing in walking distance.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Funchal 42.0 km FNC
Other:
- Beach 1.0 km
- Shops 4.0 km
- Restaurant 5.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests
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