There's something primeval about Madeira's north coast. Gnarled mountains cloaked in dense laurisilva forest tumble past steep ravines into the Atlantic Ocean, with a few smallholdings and scattered huts perched on what little flat land there is. Descending a single track lane below Boaventura, I felt as if I'd gone back a decade with each hairpin bend. So I was all the more astonished to find this sleek, new, eco-minded micro-resort, tucked between terraced vineyards and a triangle of foaming sea.
From the road, the only sign of it is a minimalist grey cube house, the Design Villa. But beyond that are three more self-catering suites (or 'Wine Houses') tucked inside the tiered mountainside, one on each level for maximum privacy. Each has a cosy sitting room with kitchenette, a kingsize bedroom with freestanding bathtub, and an all-glass, oak-slatted facade facing the quasi-Amazonian jungle opposite. Outside are fat beanbags and a parasolled table for leisurely breakfasts or starlit dinners. And on the bottom level, perched above a mini gorge, is a sleek little heated pool and a secret sauna - utter bliss after a day's hiking.
Terrabona is the passion project of Marco and Maria Joao, two charismatic ex-bankers based in Funchal, who will put the final sparkle on your stay with informal wine tastings (from their own harvest), sociable weekend suppers, a yoga session, or a sunset cruise on their private yacht. A spectacular and truly unique escape.
Highs
- Utterly romantic, and perfect honeymoon material within 4 hours’ flight of the UK, at any time of year
- The suites are sumptuous and eco-friendly: like a blissful burrow with 5* comforts
- It offers a new level of secluded luxury on an island known more for mainstream winter sun
- We loved soaking in our windowside tub, with eucalyptus and rosemary oils
- Dramatic coastal, mountain and levada hikes abound; or borrow e-bikes if you prefer
Lows
- This not a cheap holiday - but it's worth every euro
- No kids under 16: this is a couples' retreat
- It's 45 mins from the airport, or an hour from Funchal, the last part on winding roads
- And 15 mins' drive to (good) restaurants, unless you cook for yourself or book dinner with your hosts
Best time to go
Madeira is a year-round island, and Terrabona is open throughout, except for about a month in Jan-Feb when Marco and Maria take a well earned break. It's at its warmest - and generally busiest - in the European summer (June-September), which is the best time for diving and watersports. April-May and October-November are also popular with hikers, botanists and other active types. But Terrabona will never feel busy, being hidden away in one of the most secluded spots on the island. Don't rule out December and March, which are still mild (often 20-25 C), with spectcular Christmas celebrations in Funchal.
Our top tips
Try and coincide with one of their thrice-weekly communal dinners, where guests mingle over Marco's wines and Maria's home-cooked food. Ours was a highlight (see Eating). And we got to hear more about their back story. Turns out Marco’s childhood dream was to run a laid-back surfing retreat with reggae music and simple wooden cabins; but as he matured, so did his vision - and this is the result. We all agreed that the surf world's loss is the discerning couple's gain.
Our guests' ratings...
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