Reviewed by
Rachel Howard
As we followed the well-heeled holidaymakers jostling off the ferry, Symi’s pastel-hued harbour provided a cheery welcome to this charming little island. Our route led us past glitzy yachts and waterfront restaurants, up well-worn steps and winding alleys, until we came upon some kittens playing outside an ornate wrought-iron gate. Andrew and Carlos greeted us, our hospitable hosts who've poured their passion into every corner of this stylish and sensitively restored boutique hotel.
This is the old market, where sponges, spices, and silver were traded from 1884. Although a listed monument, the market had lain in ruins since it was bombed in 1944. After 5 years of painstaking restoration, a quietly opulent hotel emerged from the rubble, combining contemporary pleasures (percale linens, rain showers) with original features (flagstone floors, stone arches). In 2016, the neighbouring Captain's Mansion joined the ensemble, along with a secret courtyard garden and an exclusive fine-dining restaurant led by Michelin-trained chefs. Our dream is to rent the whole place with friends – after all, the owners and their charming staff make you feel like special guests rather than paying customers.
This is the old market, where sponges, spices, and silver were traded from 1884. Although a listed monument, the market had lain in ruins since it was bombed in 1944. After 5 years of painstaking restoration, a quietly opulent hotel emerged from the rubble, combining contemporary pleasures (percale linens, rain showers) with original features (flagstone floors, stone arches). In 2016, the neighbouring Captain's Mansion joined the ensemble, along with a secret courtyard garden and an exclusive fine-dining restaurant led by Michelin-trained chefs. Our dream is to rent the whole place with friends – after all, the owners and their charming staff make you feel like special guests rather than paying customers.
Highs
- Genuine, personal, but thoroughly professional service from real island insiders
- Ideal location in the heart of the harbour but away from the hustle
- Superb à la carte Champagne breakfast served until 11am and Symi's most sophisticated restaurant, AGORA
- The special pleasure of staying in a listed monument with every modern comfort
- The hotel's rooms and suites span two properties (next door to each other), both with lovely harbour views
Lows
- Lots of steps to and from the hotel - so not suitable for those with limited mobility
- No pool and the nearest beach is a 20-minute walk or a short boat ride away
- Because of strict building restrictions, there are some quirky architectural features like sloping floors
- Not all rooms and suites have views
- Though not strictly adult-only, there are no facilities for kids
Best time to go
The best time to visit are the months of May, June and September. The annual Symi Festival (July – September) hosts free concerts, screenings, and performances in various venues. August can be incredibly busy.
The Old Markets is open from May 1 to October 31. During the winter, it is available on request for exclusive use only.
The Old Markets is open from May 1 to October 31. During the winter, it is available on request for exclusive use only.
Our top tips
Rhodes and Symi make a perfect twin-centre holiday – fly direct to the island of Rhodes, spend a couple of days there doing the well-known cultural attractions, then catch a local ferry to untouristy Symi. Here you can explore castaway pebble beaches giving onto deep blue translucent waters, backed by rocky slopes peppered with fragrant herbs.
Day trippers and cruise boats from Rhodes descend on Symi around 11am and depart around 5pm, so it’s a good idea to escape the harbour during those hours.
Day trippers and cruise boats from Rhodes descend on Symi around 11am and depart around 5pm, so it’s a good idea to escape the harbour during those hours.