The Peacock at Rowsley
Matlock, Derbyshire & Peak District, United Kingdom
Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
To paraphrase Jane Austen, it is a truth universally acknowledged that those in possession of a fine sensibility should be in want of an excellent place to stay. The Pride and Prejudice cast, who lodged at The Peacock while filming at nearby Chatsworth, would concur. Dating from 1652 and formerly the dower house for Haddon Hall, it opened as 'probably the oldest hotel in the world' in 1820. Sited in the village of Rowsley at the confluence of the Rivers Derwent and Wye, it's now an established base for exploring the Peak District, as well as for enjoying some of the best fly-fishing in the UK.
After a lapse of 45 years, Lord Edward Manners (owner of Haddon Hall) reacquired the hotel and hired Paris-based interior designer India Mahdavi to give it a stylish makeover. The result is a striking yet homely marriage of traditional and contemporary design, with 15 comfortable guest rooms, a classy restaurant and a fire-lit bar and lounge. Mullion windows, antiques and family portraits sit alongside sleek lighting, discreet technology and bright splashes of colour: a pleasing meld of old and new. More recently, the Bakewell-based team at Longbow Venues have taken over day-to-day management, injecting a more local buzz in the bar, more flexible dining menus, and better value bedrooms. How gratifying to see new life being breathed back into this building once again.
After a lapse of 45 years, Lord Edward Manners (owner of Haddon Hall) reacquired the hotel and hired Paris-based interior designer India Mahdavi to give it a stylish makeover. The result is a striking yet homely marriage of traditional and contemporary design, with 15 comfortable guest rooms, a classy restaurant and a fire-lit bar and lounge. Mullion windows, antiques and family portraits sit alongside sleek lighting, discreet technology and bright splashes of colour: a pleasing meld of old and new. More recently, the Bakewell-based team at Longbow Venues have taken over day-to-day management, injecting a more local buzz in the bar, more flexible dining menus, and better value bedrooms. How gratifying to see new life being breathed back into this building once again.
Highs
- Inventive, beautifully presented food, with local meat, succulent fish and excellent vegetarian options
- The cosy bar and lounge make lovely places to linger with a drink and a book, and the riverside garden is beautiful in summer
- The Peak District offers some of Britain's finest scenery, as well as impressive stately homes such as Chatsworth and Haddon Hall
- The hotel owns a 7-mile stretch along the Rivers Wye and Derwent, famous for their wild rainbow trout
Lows
- Dinner is on the expensive side, especially the tasting menu; and note that it is not offered on Sunday or Monday
- The main A6 runs in front of the hotel: double-glazing cuts out most noise, but you might prefer a room at the back
- Mattresses are on the soft side
- Bathrooms are small, but they’re nicely fitted out with powerful showers and plenty of marble; some have tubs, too
Best time to go
You're assured of a warm welcome and good walking at any time of year, but there are various local events which may be of interest. The fishing season runs from April to October, with the best times being mid-May and June (book well in advance). The local tradition of 'well dressing', where locals decorate wells with collages of petals, attracts visitors to the area from the end of May until July. The Rowsley Festival is at the end of June, and there are outdoor concerts at Chatsworth during the summer months.
Our top tips
Foodies will love Bakewell's farmers' market, which takes place on the last Saturday of every month. Now the second biggest in the UK, it attracts hundreds of stalls selling organic meat, gourmet cakes, artisan cheeses, homemade jams and chutneys, fresh vegetables, even English wine. We recommend picking up a few goodies then heading to Chatsworth for a picnic by the river.