Windermere Estate
Munnar, The Hill Country, India
Reviewed by
Cathy Teesdale
Perched at 1,600m among vivid green tea plantations and misty blue mountains, Windermere Estate is a nature retreat with a Scottish Highlands feel. Wooden beams and floorboards, terracotta tiles, cheerfully-checked linen and lace curtains all add a warm, homely feel. Ophthalmic surgeon Dr Simon bought this 60-acre cardamom plantation estate in the 1990s and, when he opened the first 4 rooms, deliberately went for a farmhouse-cum-chalet feel rather than that of a hotel. Since then he’s built 12 more cottages and planter's villas, a wooden barn housing a bistro-style dining room, a bright and airy library and yoga space, and an open-sided thatched tea hut.
This is a low-key, tranquil place where you can fill your lungs with mountain air through nature walks and barbecues beneath the massive garden boulder, with its 360-degree viewing platform, or unwind with occasional yoga classes in the library. Dr Simon’s own planter’s bungalow sits at the centre of the estate, which can be booked as a whole, and he and his wife oversee hospitality and chat charmingly to guests.
This is a low-key, tranquil place where you can fill your lungs with mountain air through nature walks and barbecues beneath the massive garden boulder, with its 360-degree viewing platform, or unwind with occasional yoga classes in the library. Dr Simon’s own planter’s bungalow sits at the centre of the estate, which can be booked as a whole, and he and his wife oversee hospitality and chat charmingly to guests.
Highs
- The glorious, uplifting scenery provides satisfyingly long walks
- The views are a great fix if you miss the green, green grass of home - they must qualify as some of the most verdant in India
- The homely, chalet feel is enhanced by the charming presence of your host and his wife
- Those dreaming of a good British fry-up can feast on eggs, crispy bacon and sausages
- All the rooms are spacious and the cottages and planter's villas are blessed with fabulous mountain views
Lows
- No alcohol licence, though you can bring your own drinks to enjoy in your room
- The scenery is lush for a reason - clouds and rain are more common than in the rest of India, even outside monsoon season.
- The power supply can be erratic, but there is a back-up generator
Best time to go
There are no major seasonal weather changes in Kerala as it benefits from a temperate, tropical climate all year round. Being in the hills, however, the estate does cool down at night, though room heaters are provided and there’s an open fire in the Barn Restaurant. It tends to rain most heavily during June and July. The best time to visit is from August until March, before temperatures rise and the pre-monsoon showers and humidity set in.
Our top tips
Trek through the lush, electric-green forests and misty purple mountains for the opportunity to spot wildlife such as huge, gliding squirrels - don't forget to pack good-quality, comfortable walking boots, light waterproofs and binoculars.