Just a 20-minute drive from San José airport, you ascend into the jungled hills above the valley and up into another world: colourful modern architecture surrounded by exotic flowers in the lush gardens of Xandari. Here you find the labour of love of Californian architect Sherrill Broudy and his painter wife Charlene; this secluded hilltop resort provides a welcoming and unique experience.
Rooms are spacious individual villas, with high curving wooden ceilings and white walls that act as a backdrop for Charlene’s vividly coloured paintings and eclectic wall hangings. Each villa has its own generous balcony with rattan recliners so that you can lie back and take in the sun, or just gaze out at the valley spotting birds swooping from tree to tree. Have a massage in the spa’s beautiful jalapas, wander along trails through the jungle to secret waterfalls, plunge into the Jacuzzi-with-a-view, and feast on locally produced food in the restaurant. Xandari is a wonderful introduction to Costa Rica for families, couples and friends alike.
Highs
- Secluded feel: each room gives you acres of private space, and the resort is set in beautiful gardens with 4km of walking trails and bamboo groves
- Close to the airport: spend the start or end of your trip here (we think 2 nights minimum) discovering hidden waterfalls and getting pampered
- Spa with interesting treatments such as a 'chocolate delight' scrub and massage, as well as 3 heated outdoor pools and a spectacular array of activities on offer
- A warm welcome from charming, friendly staff, and good, locally produced food
- The views from the rooms' private terraces across the tropical gardens and down to San José are stunning
Lows
- Villas are very basic and some fittings look a little cheap, but we spent the majority of our latest revisit on the terrace or exploring the grounds
- The décor is lively rather than restrained: imagine Matisse meets Gaudí meets Picasso. We grew to enjoy it, however
- The small dining area and bar space can get crowded in peak season
- Admirable lack of heating and air con in the rooms from an environmental point of view. But bring pyjamas if you’re coming in the green season (May-September)
- Sliding patio doors have ventilation holes that may allow some little creepy crawlies in - don't forget you are amidst 40 acres of tropical gardens (reception can provide bug spray)
- Baby cots
- High chairs
Some equipment may need to be requested in advance
There's a kids' menu of sandwiches, chicken, fish & chips, pasta and smoothies.
- Lovely well-maintained botanic gardens to explore
- Three good-sized heated pools
- Grounds teeming with birdlife and lizards
- 4km of walking trails with waterfalls
- Orchards to pick your own fruit for breakfast
- Two goats (Twinkle and Sparkle) to befriend and turkeys strutting
- Ping pong room
- Art studio
- TV room and some games
- Poás Volcano
- La Paz Waterfall Garden
- Rainforest canopy tour
- Zoo Ave - small bird and mammal zoo
- River rafting (for older kids) on the Pacuare River
- Centro Neotropico & Tirimbina Biological Reserve
- Rainforest aerial tram
- Botanical gardens
- Boutique Hotel
- 24 rooms
- Restaurant and bar (open daily)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Heated Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Babysitting
- Creche / Kids Club
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Concierge Service
- Art Studio
- Yoga Studio
Rooms
Xandari's warm and welcoming accommodation is the antithesis of bland, soulless hotel rooms. Here, each of the 24 villas is individually designed by architect Sherrill Broudy. His signature swooping walls and undulating wooden roofs reflect the garden's organic shapes and "the gentleness of the Costa Rican people". These dynamic spaces are naturally cooled (heat drifts upwards to the ceiling) by the floor-to-ceiling windows that also bring in tremendous views of the valley below. Furniture is carved from local woods, and there are lovely details like stained glass windows and plants.
The villas come in 5 categories, but even the basic Prima rooms are very spacious. Prima Plus rooms are larger and have sitting areas. We were in an Ultra room, which was enormous! Only Ultra Plus rooms have bathtubs, which are beautifully set with views onto their private courtyard garden. There's also a 2-bedroom villa, The Star (sleeps up to 6 adults and 2 kids in 1 kingsize bed, 2 queensize beds and 2 single sofabeds), with a sitting/dining area and a walled garden. Prima #20 is a circular, thatched wooden hut, and is the only room to lack a valley view; it is, however, incredibly popular amongst birdwatchers as it looks directly into the thick undergrowth (please request on enquiry).
The all-white villas are decorated with a wall of bold colour, as well as vivid paintings and wall hangings by Sherrill’s wife Charlene - all inspired by her delight in Costa Rican culture. Each villa is entirely individual, but all have comfortable kingsize (or twin) beds, wicker armchairs for relaxing, a desk for writing, and a wide balcony with a view over the valley below. You also get loungers for sprawling and gazing at the birds flitting from tree to tree. Costa Rican textiles are used everywhere, though the bed linen is simple white cotton, and your bed will be adorned with tropical flowers when you arrive.
Bathrooms have showers. Some of them imaginatively designed as organic pods; others have a curved turquoise wall which continues outside into the private courtyard garden, making it seem like an outdoor shower. All are decorated with miniscule bright tiles.
You'll also find a minibar with complimentary soft drinks, and a kitchenette with basic amenities (a coffee maker, a small refrigerator, cutlery, crockery, coffee, sugar, tea and bottled water). The Star has a full kitchen.
Features include:
- Bathrobes
- Hairdryer
- Minibar
- Safe box
- WiFi
Eating
Dinner is served from 6pm to 9pm (later in high season). The darkened dining room is spread over 3 tiers, all are open along one wall to the valley; once darkness falls, it’s a pleasure to look out over the twinkling lights of San José. You'll need to wrap up from May to September, and do ask staff for a blanket if necessary.
The menu offers a good choice of Costa Rican specialities as well as simple European-style dishes - most containing organic produce grown on Xandari’s grounds, and all fresh and delicious. The chef has been with Xandari since the beginning, and his standards are high. We loved the Casados - the ubiquitous Costa Rican dish of chicken or beef (or here, deliciously grilled fish) with rice, refried beans, salad and tacos, all served on a banana leaf and wooden platter. Our chocolate macadamia cake was delicious, too.
During high season (December-March) you can’t reserve for dinner, so you might have to wait for 30 minutes for a table. However this gives you the opportunity to enjoy a cocktail in the lounge, or you can consider room service as an alternative. Make sure you try the caipirinhas and mojitos - both superb; the fresh fruit juices are also sublime. Order a plate of guacamole and salsa with homemade corn chips to stave off hunger pangs.
Lunch is uplifting: you can properly appreciate the view during the day and the Pura Vida salad is superb. The menu is much lighter than the evening one, and features a range of sandwiches and tacos, as well as some snacks; we really enjoyed our chicken enchiladas and fresh, crispy salad straight from the gardens.
Breakfast (included), served 7-10am, is great. You get a plate of fresh fruit (papaya, pineapple, strawberry, banana, watermelon and mango on our visit), fresh orange juice, tea or coffee, homemade muffins and bread (thick with crunchy macadamia nuts), a plate of cold ham or chicken, hard boiled eggs, and homemade granola. For a small extra price, you can order a standard cooked breakfast, eggs any way, or pancakes.
Those in The Star have a full kitchen (oven, microwave, fridge/freezer), so you could opt to self-cater if you wanted.
Features include:
- Bar
- Kids' meals
- Kitchenette
- Restaurant
- Room service
Activities
- Take a hike to the falls within Xandari. Anyone can do these walks, except the west trail, which is steep. If you're feeling brave, take a refreshing dip!
- Relax at the spa. Recover from your flight with superb treatments in Xandari’s beautiful jalapas - thatched treatment rooms with private Jacuzzis and a wide, open window onto the view. The Costa Rican coffee scrub and wrap will exfoliate you as never before. There's a yoga room, too
- Wander through the hotel’s gardens and greenhouse. See organic food being grown for the kitchen (tomatoes, lettuces, chilli, peppers, bananas, oranges) or examine the glorious flowers and plants all around; the hotel offers guided tours if you want to explore deeper
- Sit and bird-watch: the hotel’s gardens are full of stunning Costa Rican birds, including squirrel cuckoos, motmot, goldfinches, tropical kingbirds and various hummingbirds
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Hiking
- Plantlife / flora
- Private guided tours
- Rafting
- Swimming
- Table tennis
- Well being
- Wildlife
- Yoga
- Zip-wiring
Best Time to go
November to April are the best months to visit in the sunshine, though note that December to March is high season and gets very busy. The 'green' (rainy) season, from May to September, is becoming increasingly popular. During this time it’s sunny in the mornings - and this is when you should get out and make the most of the surrounding area - and rainy in the afternoons. For 2 weeks in late June or early July there’s often a veranillo - a 'little summer' - when the rain disappears. The rain is pretty terrible in September and October, but if you’re using this as a starting point for adventures elsewhere, it’s still cosy inside.
Our Top Tips
We'd come for 2 or 3 nights at the start of your trip, and then maybe again at the end, which gives a nice feeling of familiarity before you leave Costa Rica. Xandari is very close to the airport, and a much more appealing alternative to San José hotels.
Location
Xandari Resort & Spa is in Alajuela, just 20 minutes from the international airport at San José. San José is is the capital of Costa Rica, located in the country's central valley.
By Air:
San José Juan Santamaria International (7km) is Costa Rica's main airport so you are almost guaranteed to be arriving there after your international flight. Liberia (195km) is the other main airport in Costa Rica, but since it's so far away it's unlikely that you'll be making the journey from there directly. Click on the link below for a list of airlines serving these airports.
From the Airport
As the hotel is quite hidden, transfers are recommended - see Rates. If you're feeling adventurous, you can hop in a taxi.
By Car:
Though Xandari might not be easy to find, it's possible that you will want to pick up a car from the airport and drive yourself - see our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Costa Rica and getting around
Airports:
- San José Juan Santamaria International 7.0 km SJO
- Liberia 195.0 km LIR
Other:
- Beach 75.0 km
- Shops 7.0 km
- Restaurant 5.0 km