Lunuganga is a work of art. Its resplendent gardens are an oasis of tranquillity in a rugged slice of Sri Lankan wilderness. The late Geoffrey Bawa, renowned architect of Sri Lanka’s Houses of Parliament, spent 40 years transforming this once abandoned rubber and cinnamon plantation – a few miles inland from the island’s west coast beaches – into a tropical idyll. He fashioned elegant Italianate gardens with courtyards, lily ponds, walkways, romantic pavilions and inspirational views over blissfully quiet Dedduwa Lake. This was his consummate legacy, the place he dreamed of retiring to, and now it's ours to enjoy.
Among the greenery are 10 sumptuous rooms and suites housed in converted plantation buildings. Bawa’s iconic style – monochrome motifs, exquisite compositions of light and shade – shines throughout. You’ll get a guided tour of the garden, then you can retire to your chosen resting place – the sunset spot, the G&T corner, the meditation zone... you pick. There’s a spectacular infinity pool and a peaceful dining terrace beside the lake, where delectable fare is served by lovely staff. If you need some quiet respite after landing in Colombo or visiting busy Galle Fort, this is where to go. We left feeling totally Zen.
Highs
- There are 15 acres of gardens – immaculate lawns of frangipani, palms and banyans – providing hours of idle wandering; garden tours are included in the rates
- The tranquillity is intoxicating – it’s just you and the jungle (monkeys, monitor lizards, mongoose, peacocks)
- Elegant suites are packed with quirky collections of art and antiques, especially the Gallery Studio Suite
- The hilltop infinity pool has a magnificent view of the lake and its forested banks
- The food was some of the best we tasted in Sri Lanka – try the curries! Both afternoon tea and daily social hour drinks are included in the rates
Lows
- If travelling with children under 16, you'll be required to pay a child supplement
- The lakeside setting attracts mozzies – bring some good repellent
- The gardens are open to the public, so you might see some visitors wandering outside your room
- Some of the exterior paint and woodwork is a bit grubby, but maintaining the estate is a huge undertaking and weathering is part of its natural order
- There isn’t a lot to see in the immediate vicinity; you’re here to unwind
Best time to go
November to April are the best months for sunshine and dry weather; December to January are the busiest months and we’d recommend booking well in advance. June to October is the monsoon season, though the days are still pleasantly warm.
Our top tips
Do your complimentary garden tour during the late afternoon, when it tends to be cooler. There's often more cloud cover at this time too, and most day-trippers have departed.