Agroturismo Son Ametler
Moscari, Soller & Mountains, Spain

Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
You'll remember the ambiance of this place long after you've stayed. Unpretentious and relaxed, with no pressure to do anything other than laze by the pool and read a book, or wander through olive groves when the mood takes you, it is utterly restorative. Owners James and Paola honed their hosting skills at nearby Finca es Castell before opening their own agroturismo here, and are brilliant at creating a welcoming house party atmosphere that is laid back but quietly efficient; child-friendly but not offputtingly so for couples. With buddingly beautiful gardens, glorious pool and several terraces, there's plenty of space for everyone. Eleven rooms and family suites are spread across the old finca and new wing.
Italian-Kenyan by birth, Paola is a trained cook, and her homegrown dinners are a big draw, enjoyed in a lovely, candlelit, indoor-outdoor dining space. There is also a clutch of excellent local restaurants; this isn't a place to diet. But spend some time hiking and cycling in the glorious Tramuntana mountains (James will show you routes, or guide you if he's free), and you'll deserve the fabulous food and wine come sunset.
Italian-Kenyan by birth, Paola is a trained cook, and her homegrown dinners are a big draw, enjoyed in a lovely, candlelit, indoor-outdoor dining space. There is also a clutch of excellent local restaurants; this isn't a place to diet. But spend some time hiking and cycling in the glorious Tramuntana mountains (James will show you routes, or guide you if he's free), and you'll deserve the fabulous food and wine come sunset.
Highs
- If you want a boutique bolthole to escape and recharge, with simple pleasures and fine food, within 45 mins of a well-connected airport, look no further
- We loved the bucolic setting, surrounded by fields with the rugged Tramuntana mountains as a backdrop; views are incredible
- Great rates include a superb breakfast
- Only 11 rooms (a mix of doubles, twins and family rooms), which maintains the peace and personal service
- It's also well placed for day trips to Lluc, Pollensa, Alcudia and beaches
Lows
- The pool is too deep for young children to stand (1.5-2m)
- Some bedrooms have limited headroom
- The room decor is handsome rather than cutting-edge chic
- The delicious dinners are a set menu, and not available on Sundays or Mondays (but other restaurants are just 2km away)
- You'll need a hire car
Best time to go
Spring (March-April) and autumn (Sept-Oct) are ideal for walking. Summer (June-Sept) is good for swimming at Pollensa and Alcudia, though it can get very busy in August. Pollensa has a music and cultural festival in July-August. The finca closes for a few weeks from mid November to February.
Our top tips
4-5 days would be perfect for a relaxing break, with time for a couple of hikes, a visit to Lluc, a swim in the sea and maybe a game of tennis or golf. You might want to tack on a couple of days in Palma at the end.
Walkers should bring sturdy footwear, a sunhat, a big water bottle and, for offbeat exploration, tough trousers to protect against the tall, sharp-edged pampas grass.
Walkers should bring sturdy footwear, a sunhat, a big water bottle and, for offbeat exploration, tough trousers to protect against the tall, sharp-edged pampas grass.