Aguamel
Sintra, Lisbon Coast, Portugal
Reviewed by
Abi Dare
Perched on forested slopes, Sintra’s fairy-tale chimneys, turreted palaces and folly-filled gardens have a magical feel. Perhaps it’s the town’s origins as a Celtic centre of worship, or its cool hilltop air, which often wraps the trees in mist and which has long attracted writers, artists and aristocrats in search of a summer retreat; it might even be the ley lines on which it’s said to sit. Whatever the reason, it’s a fascinating place to explore - particularly once the day-trippers have departed.
This lovely little B&B is ideal for visitors who want to stay overnight and experience the town at its best. Hidden off a cobbled square in the historical centre, it occupies a 19th-century house that was rescued from abandon and transformed into a sanctuary as soothing and sweet as the Portuguese honey-water after which it’s named. Within its high white walls are 5 light-filled rooms dressed in softly shimmering wallpapers. There’s also a breakfast room-cum-lounge with cushioned nooks, plus a geranium-scented patio where you can linger over the homemade cake laid on every afternoon. All in all, it’s stylish, homely and, like Sintra itself, brimming with historic charm.
This lovely little B&B is ideal for visitors who want to stay overnight and experience the town at its best. Hidden off a cobbled square in the historical centre, it occupies a 19th-century house that was rescued from abandon and transformed into a sanctuary as soothing and sweet as the Portuguese honey-water after which it’s named. Within its high white walls are 5 light-filled rooms dressed in softly shimmering wallpapers. There’s also a breakfast room-cum-lounge with cushioned nooks, plus a geranium-scented patio where you can linger over the homemade cake laid on every afternoon. All in all, it’s stylish, homely and, like Sintra itself, brimming with historic charm.
Highs
- Sintra is one of Portugal’s gems - a beguiling little place that Byron once compared to paradise. It’s within easy reach of some glorious beaches, too
- A beautiful renovation of a graceful old house, which shows in every detail
- We loved the 2 Superior Rooms, which open onto a shared balcony gazing out over the plains far below. You might even spot the sea sparkling on the horizon
- Delicious breakfasts are included in the very affordable rates
- Spoiling touches: free tea, coffee and cake, an honesty fridge with soft drinks (you can store your own tipples, too), and a bottle of red wine if you book through i-escape
Lows
- The B&B has changed hands and we have yet to meet the new owners, but we're told little has changed
- Not so great for light sleepers; the bar across the square can be noisy and the bedroom walls aren't completely soundproof
- No on-site parking, and finding a space nearby can be tricky. Consider arranging a transfer or arriving by train
- This is an old building so expect things like creaky floorboards and steep staircases (no lifts)
- Bathrooms are open-plan, so you’ll need to be on good terms with your travelling companion
Best time to go
Aguamel is open all year, bar a couple of days over Christmas. We recommend coming in spring or autumn, when Sintra is relatively uncrowded. The town is often swamped by tourists in summer, though most are day-trippers who leave by late afternoon. Bear in mind that it’s always a few degrees cooler here than in Lisbon or on the coast, so pack accordingly.
Sintra plays host to a couple of festivals, including its annual fiesta on 28 and 29 June, and the Sintra Music Festival in July and August, when classical performances are held in the Palácio Nacional and other historic settings.
Sintra plays host to a couple of festivals, including its annual fiesta on 28 and 29 June, and the Sintra Music Festival in July and August, when classical performances are held in the Palácio Nacional and other historic settings.
Our top tips
- If you have a sweet tooth, make a beeline for Periquita, a bakery on Rua das Padarias that has been churning out delicious queijadas (similar to cheesecakes) since 1850
- Try to plan your time so that you can explore Sintra’s main sights later in the day, after the crowds have left. Many are open into the evening during summer, when they take on a tranquil, more mystical ambiance