Aleenta Hua Hin
Pranburi, Hua Hin & East Coast, Thailand
Reviewed by
Viv Monahan
After a few days in Bangkok, chances are you’ll want to head to the coast for some S&S on the beach (R&R is so last year, don’t you know). But the question is, where’s the best place? Well, it depends what you think S&S stands for. If it’s sleaze and sex shows, then jump on a bus to Pattaya and begone with you. But if it’s sand and sea, swimming and sunbathing or spa and style, then you should head south, past the resorty sprawl and golf courses of Cha-Am, to the little market town of Pranburi - a gloriously uncommercialised stretch, with a long empty beach, where Baht billionaires’ villas brush shoulders with palm trees and towers of lobster pots. At one end is Aleenta: it’s Sanskrit for ‘a rewarding life’ and it’s the original - and best - boutique resort here, its 2 stylish beachfront wings separated by a short tuk-tuk ride.
The hotel - one of the most relaxing places we’ve stayed in Thailand - comes beautifully together through a mixture of brilliant environmental policies and inspired management. Happy staff tend the cool residences (every one unique), while guests - long-haul travellers, ex-pats and well-heeled Thais - congregate in the ‘collision cuisine’ restaurant, by one of the swimming pools, or at the Ayurah Spa. Outside the grounds, this part of Pranburi is still Old Thailand. It’s a place where local fish cafés, golden wats, grazing oxen and street food sellers reassure you that you’re a long way, at least spiritually, from the soulless corporates further north.
The hotel - one of the most relaxing places we’ve stayed in Thailand - comes beautifully together through a mixture of brilliant environmental policies and inspired management. Happy staff tend the cool residences (every one unique), while guests - long-haul travellers, ex-pats and well-heeled Thais - congregate in the ‘collision cuisine’ restaurant, by one of the swimming pools, or at the Ayurah Spa. Outside the grounds, this part of Pranburi is still Old Thailand. It’s a place where local fish cafés, golden wats, grazing oxen and street food sellers reassure you that you’re a long way, at least spiritually, from the soulless corporates further north.
Highs
- The lovely residences have wraparound windows and open-air bathrooms; some have plunge pools, while other feature quirks like trees growing through the ceiling
- The endless sandy beach, the 2 raised infinity pools and a little-known national park on your doorstep
- Food is fun: from the canapés brought round at sunset to breakfast served on a tiered cake stand
- Rooms in the Main Wing can only accommodate over 12s, but the Frangipani Wing welcomes all ages and there's a Children's Concierge plus children are welcome in the restaurants and spa
- Pranburi has been overlooked by the developers: when we last visited, the tallest thing on the horizon was still the hill
Lows
- It’s a 3-hour drive or 4-hour train ride from Bangkok
- The beach isn’t Bounty-ad beautiful, but it’s clean, wide and peaceful
- The sea shelves very gently and jellyfish occasionally make an appearance (kite-surfers may need leggings and rashies), but the staff are well prepared
- Annoyingly, mozzies at dusk and dawn stop you sleeping with your windows open
- Only a handful of the private sundecks are truly private: in the Frangipani Wing, you can see into some ground-floor residences from the pool when doors are open
Best time to go
The temperature is a fairly stable 30-35C all year round, making this a feasible destination at any time of year. There's a light northeast monsoon from October to January, bringing winds, cloud and some rain. It also gets some spillover from the southwest monsoon between July and September. But you'll rarely get more than a couple of hours of rain in one day. February to May are the driest months, and September to November are the prime months for migratory shore birds.