Arenas del Mar
Manuel Antonio, Central Pacific Coast, Costa Rica
Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
Where the jungle meets the ocean, on a ridge with perfect horseshoe bays to the north and south, is this classy haven of cool. Once through the gates at the end of a precipitous driveway, you'll discover a private reserve of trees entwined with lianas and creepers embellished with sloths and white-faced monkeys, toucans and tanagers. The reception area is a soaring thatched palanque with elegant armchairs and a circular bar. An organic infinity swimming pool forms a natural oasis; the airy restaurant’s windows make paintings of the rainforest and coastline beyond. Just minutes away is Manuel Antonio National Park, Costa Rica’s most visited. Go with a tour guide to gain fascinating insights into the abundant wildlife, kayak through nearby mangroves, or have a go at surfing, then return to Arenas del Mar’s own beautiful stretch of secluded beach.
Elegant suites are found behind tall columns and curving stairways, lights glowing mysteriously through glass bricks; many of the rooms have ocean views from the beds or balcony hot tubs. The food is superb in both restaurants; a spa offers massages and organic treatments. And yet it’s all rigorously sustainable. Wondrous.
Elegant suites are found behind tall columns and curving stairways, lights glowing mysteriously through glass bricks; many of the rooms have ocean views from the beds or balcony hot tubs. The food is superb in both restaurants; a spa offers massages and organic treatments. And yet it’s all rigorously sustainable. Wondrous.
Highs
- Fabulous setting: nowhere in Manuel Antonio has views and a beach like this
- Gorgeous airy design: the suites exude a natural, simple elegance, as does the fine dining restaurant
- Excellent for families with a daily menu of activities, a choice of swimming pools, and a kids menu
- Local staff soon know your name and greet you like friends, embodying the 'pura vida' spirit
- A great example of Costa Rican sustainability and a hotel with minimal environmental impact
Lows
- No twin beds (except in Playitas Suite), though friends or children can use the sofabed in the living room of the suites
- A stiff uphill walk from the beach, but an electric cart can be summoned at a moment’s notice
- No lift, though 3 rooms on the ground floor are adapted for disabled guests, and you can be whisked around in the golf trolley
- All this lotus-eating doesn't come cheap (although note the mini-bars are complimentary)
Best time to go
The hotel is open all year. The dry season is December to April, when it’s hot with less rain rain, so it's great for the beach. This is the rainforest though, so there has to be a rainy season, and it’s April to November. In September and October, the rain is very heavy, November is lovely and Thanksgiving brings lots of US guests, who stay for the following week. January, February and March are the busiest months. It's far better to come in May, when the rain is supposed to start, but it’s still very pleasant. Even then it only rains in the afternoons. Book a year ahead for Christmas and New Year.
Our top tips
Immerse yourself in the natural world on the property itself. Make time to walk through the hotel grounds along a forest trail down to Espadilla Beach; your key card unlocks the gate. You can also book an early morning birdwatching tour, a sunset walk or night safari around the grounds.