Azur Hotel
Cirali (Olympos), Mediterranean Coast, Turkey
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
In my many years of hotel reviewing, this is one of the happiest places I’ve stayed. Staff welcome you with open arms and beaming smiles; by day three, they’re kissing your children like a favourite aunt. At breakfast tables shaded by mulberry and palm trees, and laid with fresh-picked loquats, homemade poppy seed jam and juicy tomatoes, guests - mostly from Germany, England and Turkey, many with kids in tow - greet each other with broad grins and glowing accounts of the previous day’s gulet excursion.
The gardens here are so idyllic - fringed with blood-red hibiscus, orange lilies and rampant dogrose - that you feel as if you’ve unearthed a 21st-century Eden. You’d barely guess that there are 32 cabins and houses among them, screened by citrus trees. These, in truth, are compact and not particularly stylish, but they’re comfy and very good value. And you'll spend most of your day outside, either around the large and lovely pool, or on the stunning pebble-and-sand beach of Cirali, just 5 minutes' walk away. We rate this as one of Europe’s most stunning beaches: fully two miles long, backed by pine-covered mountains, flanked on one side by the Lycian ruins of Olympos, and on the other by the natural flames of the Chimaera. Paradise indeed.
The gardens here are so idyllic - fringed with blood-red hibiscus, orange lilies and rampant dogrose - that you feel as if you’ve unearthed a 21st-century Eden. You’d barely guess that there are 32 cabins and houses among them, screened by citrus trees. These, in truth, are compact and not particularly stylish, but they’re comfy and very good value. And you'll spend most of your day outside, either around the large and lovely pool, or on the stunning pebble-and-sand beach of Cirali, just 5 minutes' walk away. We rate this as one of Europe’s most stunning beaches: fully two miles long, backed by pine-covered mountains, flanked on one side by the Lycian ruins of Olympos, and on the other by the natural flames of the Chimaera. Paradise indeed.
Highs
- It’s a stunning part of the world, perfect for coastal hikes, snorkelling, boat trips, exploring ancient ruins or just lazing on beach loungers (at their sister restaurant)
- The gardens really are a treasure: hidden hammocks, canopied tea houses, lush lawns, all tended by three full-time gardeners
- The pool is a godsend in the scorching summer, particularly for energetic children
- Dinners are excellent: grilled meats and fish, salads and sweets, all served al fresco at candlelit tables
- Fantastic value, especially in the shoulder seasons
Lows
- The accommodation is simple, and some guests say it is looking a bit tired
- The beach has become more popular with (mostly Russian) tourists, with accompanying gulet tours; but there’s acres of space
- We've heard reports that the beach (a turtle reserve) is no longer so turtle-friendly, with some loud music and lights at night
- As is common around the Mediterranean, there are stray cats (and the occasional dog) that roam the grounds freely
- If you haven't prepaid, the hotel prefers to settle in cash on arrival so make sure to get cash
Best time to go
The best times are the shoulder seasons of April-May and mid-September-October, when the sun is not as fierce. It's the perfect time for gentle coastal hikes, and the sea remains warm enough for swimming until early November (though in early April it takes some bravery to plunge in). If you come in high summer, be prepared for temperatures nudging 40 celsius (or escape by cable car to the summit of Tahtali, where it's always around 20 degrees cooler). In winter (mid Nov-March), most of the restaurants and bars are closed, but Azur remains open for those who want total peace and solitude by the sea.