Babylonstoren
near Paarl, Cape Winelands & West Coast, South Africa

Reviewed by
Will Hide
A 45-minute drive east of Cape Town, near the town of Paarl, you turn down a dirt track, past rows of vines, and park up. A golf buggy comes to take your luggage as you stroll towards reception, where you're met with a friendly “Howzit?”. The gnarled, rather crumpled Simonsberg Mountain is away to the right, behind a converted 1692 Cape Dutch farmhouse and row of whitewashed old workers’ cottages that have been transformed very, very tastefully into accommodation.
Stepping over a small stream, you enter your cottage and emit a “Wow” - seriously, you will. The elegant interiors looks like they've come straight from the pages of a glossy style mag, but that's not surprising: owner Karen Roos was formerly editor of South African Elle Decoration.
In front lies a beautifully landscaped 8-hectare garden, with giant orange pumpkins, an indigenous cycad 'forest', yellow citrus orchards, scented healing herb beds, a block of mulberries, and bright vegetables in every hue. Wander in and pick your own fruit, or veggies and herbs if you're here to self-cater; some cottages have kitchens, but the restaurant's the main event. Sublime cuisine with beautifully colour-coded dishes is hard to beat. Later, head to the spa, borrow a mountain bike for a short spin around the farm, and watch the sunset with drink in hand from the top of the small hill nearby. This is what a holiday is really all about.
Stepping over a small stream, you enter your cottage and emit a “Wow” - seriously, you will. The elegant interiors looks like they've come straight from the pages of a glossy style mag, but that's not surprising: owner Karen Roos was formerly editor of South African Elle Decoration.
In front lies a beautifully landscaped 8-hectare garden, with giant orange pumpkins, an indigenous cycad 'forest', yellow citrus orchards, scented healing herb beds, a block of mulberries, and bright vegetables in every hue. Wander in and pick your own fruit, or veggies and herbs if you're here to self-cater; some cottages have kitchens, but the restaurant's the main event. Sublime cuisine with beautifully colour-coded dishes is hard to beat. Later, head to the spa, borrow a mountain bike for a short spin around the farm, and watch the sunset with drink in hand from the top of the small hill nearby. This is what a holiday is really all about.
Highs
- The stunning suites: vintage four-poster beds, angle-poise lamps and rolltop bathtubs, all wrapped in a graceful, all-white cocoon
- The food in the restaurant, Babel, is simply fantastic. Straight-from-the-garden ingredients are spun into colourful juices and salad plates (picture a 'yellow salad' with butternut squash, corn and papaya), meat is organic, and puddings are a treat
- Friendly, laid-back staff. Ask for a guided tour of the amazing gardens and winery
- The beautiful setting and the peace - it's perfect for a romantic or restorative break, though it's popular with families, too
- It seems remote but Paarl is a 10-minute drive away, there are vineyards on the doorstep, and you're only 15 minutes from Franschhoek with its world-class restaurants
Lows
- The pool is constructed from a converted water tank - cool and eco, yes, but not as stylish as the rest of the hotel
- You'll need a car or pay for a taxi if you want to eat out or explore the Winelands
- It's expensive, especially in high season. But it's so unusual and worth it. Generous touches include fridges stocked with complimentary drinks, chilled wine and canapes brought to your room early evening and free laundry
Best time to go
This is a wonderful year-round destination, although bear in mind the reverse seasons in the southern hemisphere - you won’t be lying by the pool in June and July, though it will still be warm. Things can get extremely hot during their summer (December-March), with temperatures hovering around 40C.
Our top tips
Do the morning garden tour. Being shown around their beautiful orchards and plants was fantastic - a real high. If you get up early enough you can help herd the ducks onto their patch for the day. And a row on the dam at sunset with a loved one and a bottle of something chilled isn't a bad way to wind down.
Do head to The Farm Shop for handmade cheeses, preserves, bottles of cordial, house-cured charcuterie, freshly baked bread and wine. You can also buy handmade serving sets, thrown utensil pots and linen tablecloths.
Do head to The Farm Shop for handmade cheeses, preserves, bottles of cordial, house-cured charcuterie, freshly baked bread and wine. You can also buy handmade serving sets, thrown utensil pots and linen tablecloths.