Banyan Camp
Hambegamuwa, Yala & Southeast, Sri Lanka

Reviewed by
Sarah de Vere-Drummond
At the height of Sri Lanka’s civil war, nature-lovers Souhaine and Vijayanthi dreamed of a peaceful hideaway to escape the country’s chaos. They found what they were looking for on the banks of Lake Hambegamuwa: 15 acres of pristine wilderness, dotted with twisted banyan trees and alive with chattering monkeys, unconcerned buffaloes and the occasional wandering elephant. Here they let their imaginations run free and the result is remarkable: a quirky but comfortable camp with 3 eco lodges and a truly magical setting.
Secluded amongst the tropical foliage, each lodge is designed with simplicity and flair. Everything — from the upcycled doors and driftwood furniture to champagne-bottle walls — is unique, inspirational and fun, with no carbon footprint. Open-air lodges are cooled by the breeze while lanterns provide a warm evening glow. This is a very special hideaway for people looking to escape the chaos of modern life; somewhere you can switch off your phone and let nature revive you. Take canoe safaris to spot buffalo and incredible birdlife, swim in pretty waterfalls, and enjoy candlelit dinners on a raft on the lake. Visit nearby Udawalawe to see wild elephants and, if you’re lucky, maybe a leopard too.
Secluded amongst the tropical foliage, each lodge is designed with simplicity and flair. Everything — from the upcycled doors and driftwood furniture to champagne-bottle walls — is unique, inspirational and fun, with no carbon footprint. Open-air lodges are cooled by the breeze while lanterns provide a warm evening glow. This is a very special hideaway for people looking to escape the chaos of modern life; somewhere you can switch off your phone and let nature revive you. Take canoe safaris to spot buffalo and incredible birdlife, swim in pretty waterfalls, and enjoy candlelit dinners on a raft on the lake. Visit nearby Udawalawe to see wild elephants and, if you’re lucky, maybe a leopard too.
Highs
- A magical lakefront setting; particularly atmospheric at night with the sounds of the jungle to lull you to sleep
- A true eco-retreat: carbon-neutral, built from recycled and sustainable local materials
- Rates include delicious vegetarian Sri Lankan meals: some of the best we've had, all made from fresh local ingredients
- Quirky simplicity and creativity at every turn: we love the off-beat patterns, dashes of colour and unconventional lodgings
- Wonderful activities include bird watching, picnics by a waterfall and spotting wild elephants
Lows
- This is a basic, back-to-nature place: don’t expect a pool or pampering, nor hot showers, air con, or WiFi
- Since our visit they have added some simpler backpacker huts in the grounds, which has made the vibe more youthful and laid-back
- Lodges are open to the elements (and therefore bugs and creepy crawlies), though tall grasses and foliage offer privacy
- Staff are welcoming but you’ll be mostly left alone to soak up the atmosphere, explore and relax
- Meals are set menus and meat-free, but carnivores won't feel like they're missing out
Best time to go
Sri Lanka has a warm, tropical year-round climate with plenty of sunshine. The winter months (December to March) are the driest time to visit the island’s south, before the Yala (southwest) monsoon brings heavy showers from April to September. The dry season is also the best time for spotting elephants in Udawalawe National Park, as wildlife gathers around the watering holes to drink.
Our top tips
It’s worth staying at least 2 nights to relax into the vibe and enjoy the gentle activities on offer. Bring cash for drinks and a lake safari with friendly local fishermen. Avoid leaving toothpaste or food lying about – unless you want to share your lodge with local monkeys and squirrels!