Batu Batu
Pulau Tengah, Tioman & East Coast, Malaysia
Reviewed by
Emily McDonnell
Sunlight danced on the waves as we sped across the South China Sea, weaving around wooden fishing boats and away from the bustling port of Mersing. Stepping off the boat at our destination 20 minutes later, we were awe-struck by the dazzling blue of the shallows, the pure white of the sand and the deep green of the jungle; put simply, Pulau Tengah (‘Middle Island’) is as close to paradise as we’d ever come.
Hugging a stretch of the 3km coastline, between thriving coral reefs and swaying coconut palms, Batu Batu is the only resort on the otherwise uninhabited island. Its 22 traditional Malay villas were built by local carpenters; some have 1 bedroom, others annexes for children, but all are quietly luxurious, with four-poster beds and huge tubs. The vibe throughout is relaxed, and as we explored we saw kids playing in the infinity pool and couples lingering over cocktails in the bar. We spent our time immersed in nature – swimming with reef sharks and clownfish, releasing turtle hatchlings into the surf, and sunning ourselves on near-deserted beaches. We’d also intended to scuba-dive with the on-site PADI school and spoil ourselves in the spa, but for that we'll have to return; it transpires 3 nights in paradise just aren’t enough.
Hugging a stretch of the 3km coastline, between thriving coral reefs and swaying coconut palms, Batu Batu is the only resort on the otherwise uninhabited island. Its 22 traditional Malay villas were built by local carpenters; some have 1 bedroom, others annexes for children, but all are quietly luxurious, with four-poster beds and huge tubs. The vibe throughout is relaxed, and as we explored we saw kids playing in the infinity pool and couples lingering over cocktails in the bar. We spent our time immersed in nature – swimming with reef sharks and clownfish, releasing turtle hatchlings into the surf, and sunning ourselves on near-deserted beaches. We’d also intended to scuba-dive with the on-site PADI school and spoil ourselves in the spa, but for that we'll have to return; it transpires 3 nights in paradise just aren’t enough.
Highs
- Barefoot luxury in a truly unspoilt setting – and a commitment to protecting the island's natural beauty
- A friendly, laid-back ambiance: we felt ourselves start to unwind the moment we stepped off the boat
- Delicious, daily-changing meals in the restaurant, some using ingredients grown on the island
- A huge array of activities: paddle boarding, scuba diving, PADI courses, jungle walks, kayaking, spa treatments
- Manager MacNeil and his team go above and beyond, always with huge smiles
Lows
- A trek to get here (a 3-5 hour drive from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, followed by a boat transfer), but oh-so worth it
- Full pre-payment is required, and rates don't include any food (you'll need to buy a separate meal plan)
- WiFi is limited to some communal areas, although we enjoyed the digital detox
- There are mozzies and sandflies, plus occasional jellyfish in the sea (you can buy a special jellyfish repellent)
- It's a 15-minute walk from the furthest villas to the pool and restaurant
Best time to go
The dry season runs from March to November. We visited in August, when the weather was hot and sunny and the sea delightfully warm - though we did experience one very impressive tropical thunderstorm. December to February is the monsoon season, with heavy rain and strong winds; these months are not suitable for diving, and the diving season normally ends on 15 November.
Our top tips
This is a great place to learn to dive. The entry-level PADI qualification is very reasonably priced, and the waters surrounding Batu Batu offer perfect conditions for novices - not too deep (a maximum of 5-7m), with plentiful coral.