Just back from a wellness break in the Austrian Alps

As an avid skier, I normally head to the mountains in the winter, saving my summer trip for beach lounging. But a week of relaxation in the Austrian Alps, filled with yoga, spa sessions and lots of time in nature, may have shaken up my routine for good. We visited three different i-escape hotels, travelling via train at very reasonable prices, and came back feeling totally rejuvenated.

Stop 1: Haus Hirt, Bad Gastein

Our first stop on the trip was Haus Hirt, a hotel I’ve had on my wishlist for a long time after hearing i-escape Co-founder Nikki rave about it on several occasions – even admitting it was possibly her favourite i-escape stay ever. I was right to be excited. We spent three nights here, and the hospitality we received from owner Evelyn and her fantastic team of staff was unmatched. The hotel truly feels like a home, and there’s a real sense of community. All meals and a bunch of daily activities are included in the rates, which brings guests together and creates a wonderful space for families and friends alike. 

We had a beautiful split-level room on the third floor which overlooked the mountain valley. The vista was misty during our stay, but I loved the brooding drama it added to the scenery. We sadly couldn’t join the hotel’s guided hikes, due to my friend’s recent ski injury, so one morning we drove to Sportgastein, a nearby area known for hiking and off-piste skiing, for a gentle walk around the flower fields. We soaked up glorious views and gorged on kaspressknodelsuppe (clear beef soup with cheese dumplings), goulash, apple strudel & rum hot chocolates at Valeriehaus.

Back at Haus Hirt, we popped by the spa to try one of their “innovative” massages: combining hot stones, shiatsu and Thai massage, it involves being walked on by the therapist to relieve muscle tension, encourage blood circulation and promote lymphatic drainage. This was easily the best massage I have ever had, and the price wasn’t half bad, either. We also tried the Gasteiner Thermalbad – two side by side tubs lit with candles. The water in Bad Gastein is said to have healing properties, with anti-inflammatory, revitalising and pain-relieving effects, among other perks (like enhanced fertility in women!). We can’t comment on the latter, but we certainly left feeling rejuvenated.

Meals are served in the scenic dining room with panoramic views. Breakfast was a lovely spread of fresh fruits, pastries, breads, an array of juices, porridge and fresh fruit compote, plus eggs to order. On our table we found the programme of activities for the day, including two guided hikes (for different levels), activities happening in town and a specific child-friendly activity. I was a big fan of their ‘picnic’ station at breakfast, where we could make our own packed lunch to take with us on our chosen activity. Lunches and dinners were filling but nutritious and geared around fuelling the body kindly, so we felt zero guilt about the wine and cocktails subsequently consumed in the gorgeous bar. 

Before our train on our final afternoon, Evelyn organised for a guide, Peter, to take us up the mountain for one last walk. With my friend’s skiing injury we couldn’t venture too far, so we took the Stubnerkogel Bergstation cable car up to 2251m. As we walked, Peter told us all about the wildflowers and the skiing in the local area, and we stopped by Gipfelrestaurant Stubner for a well-earned beer at the end.

If we had more time and fewer injuries, we would’ve loved to try more of the guided hikes. What I loved most about Haus Hirt was how Evelyn and her team tailored our experience to our needs. We made the most of the twice-daily yoga, while Evelyn arranged most of our spa treatments, and even for our souls to be cleansed by their Shaman, Pedro. This won’t be for everyone, but whatever you show an interest in, the team will go out of their way to arrange it for you. 

The atmosphere is so relaxed and sociable; we had wonderful chats with guests and staff alike. Everyone we met had an interesting story about how they found the Haus; whether they’d visited as a child and now work there, or have been visiting for 40 years, or their children had practically grown up there.  I was told by Nikki that there was something special about the hotel you couldn’t quite put your finger on, and boy, was she right. Whatever it is, people keep coming back for more – and we’ll be among them.

Full-board room rate from £130 per night

Stop 2: Hotel Miramonte, Bad Gastein

Next up was neighbouring Hotel Miramonte, though sadly just a whistle-stop visit this time. Keeping it in the family, Miramonte is run by Evelyn’s architect husband Ike, who also designed Haus Hirt. This is evident in the same quirky charm and friendly service as our previous stay, but this is the place to head if you’re after a slightly edgier, grown-up vibe. There’s a stylish bar and a large rooftop terrace with fire pits, DJs and live music in the summer. Rooms are sleek, comfortable and have balconies complete with stunning views. And there’s a generous spa & relaxation area with a yoga room, so it would be tempting to stay put all day, but you’re also only a few minutes walk from the centre of Bad Gastein. 

I enjoyed walking around the quirky spa town of Bad Gastein, it has a colourful, interesting history and so much to offer tourists. Our itinerary was already jam-packed, so if (or when) I make a return trip I would visit the Felsentherme pools (indoor and outdoor pools, sauna and spa) and follow the Poserhöhe Trail across the largest grass mountain in Austria, Gamskarkogel. If you’re feeling brave, or just curious, visit Gasteiner Heilstollen, a health centre for radon therapy, located within the base of a mountain, with naturally elevated radon levels; massages, therapeutic gymnastics and numerous other therapies are on offer within the caves. Not one for the claustrophobic!

Rooms from £110 per night

Stop 3: Forsthofalm, Leogang

Finally, we took the scenic train journey from Bad Gastein to Leogang, hurtling past the beautiful Zell am See on our way. Our last destination was Forsthofalm; as we wound up the path towards the hotel we started to get a sense of how isolated it was. In winter, the hotel benefits from ski-in/ski-out access to the Saalbach-Hinterglemm-Leogang area, which has 270km of piste and 73 lifts. In summer, this means plenty of hiking and nature right on the doorstep. 

Our first impressions of the hotel’s design were promising. I loved the disco balls hanging from the bar ceiling and the large glass windows which looked out onto the slope and free-roaming cows. We were in a hillside room, the smallest room type they have – still a generous 34sqm – which had a balcony looking out onto the ski lift. The lift, steps from the hotel, is a dream first thing in the morning; you can hire your kit and buy your passes from the hotel, hit the lift (which has no queue) at 8am to get in first, then ski back to the hotel for breakfast at 10am, bypassing the crowds coming up from Leogang town. It all felt a little quiet while we were there, but I imagine in winter the hotel completely comes into its own. 

After a busy few days in Bad Gastein, we were keen to have a day of relaxation, and we were in the right place to do just that! The spa was huge, with lots of cosy areas to retreat to. We bathed in the steaming infinity pool as rain fell around us, then warmed up in the saunas – a choice of 60 or 90 degrees. My favourite space was the upstairs relaxation room, with glass walls and ceilings and around a dozen beds to snuggle up in. We sat here during rain, sun and mist: all were beautiful, and I imagine in the snow it might be even better. There’s also a state-of-the-art gym, treatment rooms, homemade spa products and a romantic outdoor bath which can be privately hired in the evenings. Half-board rates (full-board available in winter) here also include twice-daily yoga sessions, which I took advantage of!

We were intrigued by dinner, the menu focusing on plant-based sharing dishes, with the option of meats and fish from the grill for non-veggies. We found that the meat and fish dishes were the highlight, with some of the veggie / vegan dishes falling a little flat; our favourites included a main of duck breast from the charcoal grill served with teriyaki sauce and spring onion, and a crispy, juicy pork belly. We also enjoyed our dessert of vegan mille-feuille with avocado cream, lime and raspberry sorbet. There were tantalising options at the continental breakfast buffet, including honeycomb, fresh bread, a station for making your own fruit juices, and even sparkling wine. It was all really tasty and would set you up well for a day on the slopes or, like us, exploring the summer landscape.

We set off to practice yoga in the forest, though as it had been raining so much, it was more of a standing meditation on the grassy slope. This was still a lovely start to the day. Then the sun came out, so we took the Asitz cable car to find the ‘Mountain of Senses.’ At the top of the lift, there’s an 8.2-km long hiking trail, a yoga space, a treetop bed, and even a waterfall. At the mid-station you’ll find the senses park – with a barefoot walk, a herbs and alpine plants path, a stunning man-made lake and an amazing children’s play area. There’s also the Flying Fox XXL zipline, a toboggan run and The Epic Bike Park for the more adventurous. We stopped at the Steinadler Panorama bar for a drink with a view before heading back to the hotel for a relaxing afternoon stretched out on the daybeds with a book, soaking up the afternoon sun.

We loved the garden: the tastefully-placed loungers, a small natural pond for swimming, sunken seating under a tree for escaping the sun, and the main terrace for bathing in it. And every evening in the winter they have a DJ for apres and sundowners. The hotel has some great eco-credentials too: the walls of the hotel are all made from clay, to keep cool in the summer and retain heat in the winter; only wood forms the structure of the building, no screws or glue; bedding and mattress toppers are made from sheep wool and contain lavender. Claudia, of the Widauer family who run the hotel, said the idea is that the whole hotel is full of life, from the guests and activities to the building itself. 

We were sad to leave Forsthofalm but returned home well-rested and happy to have caught some sun in the Austrian Alps. I loved every minute of this trip and would recommend it to anyone in need of active relaxation, set in the most beautiful locations. Now, to plan my return…

Rooms from £313 per night