Refugium Lunz
Lunz am See, Austrian Alps, Austria

For a property with such a rich history, the first thing that strikes you walking through the doors of the Refugium Lunz is its utter modernity. Nestling in the town square of the picturesque medieval town of Lunz, it looks from the outside a classic chocolate-box Austrian chateau. But the interior is a masterful restoration that nods to the past yet is very much a contemporary 4-star hostelry. The vaulted arches, wooden beams and exposed brickwork remain, but everything else has been brought bang up to date – a veritable Scandinavian-style symphony of marble, iron, steel and glass, concrete, natural woods, clean lines, all accentuated by the highest of high-end furnishings.
This is no sterile designer project, however. The emphasis here throughout, including in the 25 rooms and suites, is on upmarket comfort. Gastronomy is a highlight, indeed the heart of the Refugium is the salonküche, the open kitchen where head chef and co-manager Christian rustles up international and traditional dishes, while you watch with a glass of wine. Alternatively, grab a book and nestle down beside the roaring fire in winter, or in summer head to the terrace pool, taking in the fabulous views of the old town, the canopy of forest or the sweep of the Ybbstal Alps in the distance.
This is no sterile designer project, however. The emphasis here throughout, including in the 25 rooms and suites, is on upmarket comfort. Gastronomy is a highlight, indeed the heart of the Refugium is the salonküche, the open kitchen where head chef and co-manager Christian rustles up international and traditional dishes, while you watch with a glass of wine. Alternatively, grab a book and nestle down beside the roaring fire in winter, or in summer head to the terrace pool, taking in the fabulous views of the old town, the canopy of forest or the sweep of the Ybbstal Alps in the distance.
Highs
- The barnlike wellness area features a heated outdoor pool, sauna, relaxation/massage room, and yoga and fitness room. Beautiful, calming and spacious
- The view from the restaurant over the town and forest must be one of the best in the area – particularly during the day – perfectly framed by the full-length sliding glass doors
- Instead of a classic hotel bar, there’s a cute ‘vinotheque’ wine cabinet, espresso bar and a small shop selling local specialities
- Great outdoorsy destination for all seasons, with snowsports, hiking and biking in the mountains, as well as watersports by the river and the emerald Lake Lunz
- All rooms have private terraces, some also have saunas
Lows
- Most of the rooms are for couples so not especially suited to families – although one or two have an extra bed, and some of the rooms are connected
- The area itself, although beautiful and great for exploring, with lots of adventurous activities on the doorstep, doesn’t have much in the way of attractions or tourist sites
- Lunz is a hidden gem in the centre of the country, equidistant from Vienna and Graz; international airports are at a distance
Best time to go
It’s a great destination all year round although it does get very cold in winter. It has the dubious distinction of being the coldest place ever recorded in Europe (-52C, although that was back in 1952!) Typical European seasonal temperatures apply most of the time, however. Warm and sunny in summer, mild and pleasant in spring and autumn.
Our top tips
For something different, take a visit to the Hammerherren Museum in town. It’s small but wonderfully curated and tells the history of the Black Counts – the traditional iron workers who used to produce the area’s most valuable product. The guides are passionate and welcoming and full of useful insights about the region’s heritage.