With my eldest son and husband away on a football tour in Mallorca, I wanted to treat the rest of my clan (and myself) to a little jaunt of our own. So I took my youngest (10 years old) and my father to northern Portugal, starting in Porto and then travelling the course of the Douro and up into the Minho. It’s not a well-known area for a family holiday, but we found it delighted all three generations of us – which is no mean feat! For an outdoorsy break with friendly places to stay and quiet countryside to explore, northern Portugal is a winner.
Stop 1: Vila Foz, Porto
Its reputation for fortified wine might not scream family destination, but as far as cities go, Porto is a great size for exploring with kids (and oldies). This isn’t a hectic metropolis, but rather a laid-back riverside city with a friendly atmosphere and beaches to retreat to. We flew in there (lots of budget flights) and spent a night by sea, staying just outside of the city centre, away from the bustle. We were a little delayed and arrived late at night, worried that we would not pick up our car in time (rental companies close at midnight). But – top tip – for a €50 fee, they hang about and give you the car despite the delays. So, a mere 15 mins later, we had cruised out from the airport along the mercifully empty streets to our first stop: Hotel Vila Foz.
With lavish decor and stunning sea views, this is quite the place to start. The five-star aspect of this place really delivers without any stiff formality. The staff are wonderful, providing impeccable service that is friendly and warm. They settled us into our two rooms on the top floor of the new building, and we let my dad have the sea view (at 2am I barely knew which way was up and would have probably gone to sleep in the corridor if I hadn’t known better!). He loved waking up and stepping out onto his sea-facing balcony.
The rooms are spread across two buildings – the original manor house and a more contemporary extension. They appear to be separate but they are cleverly linked by an underground tunnel so you never have to step foot outside. I personally preferred the manor house rooms as they have more of the original character of this beautiful building, and the modern design is blended with the older features of the hotel. Some of these also have big bathtubs. But most don’t have direct sea views, so it depends on your priorities. Wherever you stay, rooms are spacious, and there are lots of additional amenities: free sun hats for all, a bottle of port, slippers and toiletries. The bathrooms are sleek with luxurious, fluffy towels, French toiletries and a fantastic shower. I could not fault it.
Breakfast is a total treat: a full spread of every possible charcuterie and cheese, fruits, baked goods including tiny pasteis de nata, an array of cooked-to-order egg options including waffles and pancakes for the youngsters, plus Champagne and oysters for the adults! At lunch, we dined on the terrace amongst the local business folks, guests and ladies that lunch – who really upped the glamour!
This hotel is ideal for families or return visitors to Porto who want to enjoy the city but get out of the hustle and bustle. We didn’t have much time to explore, but we did spend a relaxing morning on the long sandy beach, which is directly opposite the hotel. It’s only 15 mins to downtown Porto in a taxi, and it’s cheap to get around. With youngsters in tow, I’d recommend the Gaia cable car or a boat trip, as well as the World of Discoveries museum and theme park.
Stop 2: Casas de Pousadouro, Douro Valley
Time to leave the city and head for the hills. Our next stop was Casas de Pousadouro, four riverfront houses perching on the northern bank of the Douro. The best things here are the glorious views, the setting, and Juliana the hyper-capable manageress. She is young and enthusiastic, happy to help with anything, and generally lovely – my son adored her.
We stayed in Pilot House, which has three bedrooms so we each had our own space. The downstairs has two walls of floor-to-ceiling windows so you get lots of natural light and breathtaking views. Outside, the grounds are pristine with not a leaf out of place. Orange trees, flowers, bean bags and garden chairs abound, so there is always a sunny or shady spot to retreat to.
Breakfast is delivered daily and is plentiful and tasty (freshly-baked bread, local cheese, yoghurt, sweet orange juice). We also took advantage of the restaurant delivery service, tucking into a tasty roast chicken for dinner. I’d recommend new guests do this for day one, or do a big shop on the way there as restaurants and shops are a steep and winding drive away. Be warned that this is not a great area to explore in the car if you get car sick!
The houses share a pool right beside the river. It’s on the small side so it might be a bit crowded when fully booked, but you’ve got the Douro to swim in! This stretch of river is separated from the main stretch via a bridge and cute railway line, so you don’t get tourist boats passing by. SUPs and kayaks are available to borrow – my son and dad went out together and had a hoot on the water.
It is so restful here, and it’s great for nature-loving families. Little noise means wildlife is abundant; we saw eagles, ducks, lizards, loads of butterflies and bats – my 10-year-old especially loved the lizards. I would certainly go back with the whole family as the area is stunning, and I feel that my kids (aged 10-14) are the perfect ages for this sort of activity holiday. In fact, my dad has already been back, and is planning to go a third time! It’s great value, and the kids will love being able to do paddleboarding and kayaking every day. A real gem.
Stop 3: Quinta da Bouca D’Arques, Minho
We turned northwards to our final hotel, Quinta da Bouca d’Arques, in the Minho district. This quinta has been a family home for 300 years, but it was the latest owner, Joao, who turned it into the beautiful B&B that it is today. Following a career in banking, this became his retirement hobby. He’s a charming and well-travelled man with a love of plants and trees, and the gardens here are clearly his absolute passion. They are what makes the place so special, and there’s a lovely pool nestled at the centre of them – very restful.
There are two very different types of living space: one traditional, the other contemporary. I personally liked the older style rooms as you get more of the history and quirkiness of the original buildings. They keep very cool, too, with thick stone walls, and each one gets its own terrace or bit of garden. Camelia and Casa da Fonte were my favourites. A young Portuguese architect was brought in to design the newer rooms, which have floor-to-ceiling, sliding glass windows that bring the outside in.
Another epic breakfast was delivered in a basket to the door each morning, with juice, fresh bread, fruit, yogurts and so on. Just heavenly, and we ate the lot. They don’t do any other meals but each room has a little kitchenette so you can self-cater, or there are plenty of local places to drive out to. We opted for a small tapas place nearby called O Tasco Regional, which was excellent value and had an eye-watering selection of Portuguese wines.
I can vouch for the fact the families will love this place. There’s that big sweep of flat lawn for toddling, running and outdoor games, there are the woods to explore, the pool, a secret wooden house, and easy interaction with other bambinos. Amorosa’s beautiful beaches and watersports are nearby (15 mins by car), as are river beaches and pools. You could also visit Ponte de Lima or Viana do Castelo, both full of old Portuguese charm. We could have stayed for days.
For more Portugal travel advice or tips, chat to Kate on +44 117 946 7072, or email her at kate@i-escape.com