Quinta da Bouca D'Arques
Viana do Castelo, Porto, Douro & Minho, Portugal
Every one has had oodles of TLC lavished upon it, combining family antiques, Ana's hand-painted furniture and paintings with every creature comfort. All are wrapped round by a delectable swathe of glorious mature garden, awash with the colours of agapanthus, hortensia, jacaranda and bougainvillea, and shaded by towering trees - perfect for blissfully lazy afternoons with just a book for company. I found it incredibly reminiscent of those hill station homes the British built in India: places to retreat, recuperate and rejoice in the beauty of what lies all about you.
Highs
- Little-known beaches, excellent food and wine, crystalline rivers and ancient footpaths: the Minho has something for everyone
- Rates include breakfast, which is brought to your apartment, after which you have the freedom to self-cater (except in the suite) or eat out at great restaurants
- João and Ana, your hosts at the Quinta, just couldn't be nicer: you'll leave having made new friends
- Garden lovers will wax lyrical about the Quinta's woodlands, vineyards, lawns and shrubberies, with a delectable pool set amongst them
- Flexible accommodations in spacious surroundings will suit everyone from families to honeymooners
Lows
- The Minho can see heavy rain in the winter months, though you'd be warm and cosy at the Quinta
- You'll need a car to get to restaurants and food shops
- If you're staying in one of the traditional apartments which horseshoe round the lawn, you should expect to rub shoulders with your neighbours
Best time to go
Our top tips
- B&B Apartments
- 8 suites for 2-4
- Self-catering (but breakfast provided)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Bicycles Available
- Laundry Service
Rooms
There are 2 very different types of living space: one traditional, the other contemporary. Fans of innovative design will love the raised pod-style apartments, Jacaranda and Acer (each sleeping 2, double or twin). These break radically with the mould of the adjacent manor: floor-to-ceiling, sliding-glass windows bring the outside in, whilst wooden slats on the sunnier walls ensure that glass house isn't synonymous with greenhouse; they also create beautiful plays of light.
On the inside, doors slide across to define living and sleeping spaces; cupboards slide out to reveal kitchen paraphernalia (all you need for preparing meals in-house). It's an exceptionally ingenious use of space. Full-length curtains match the name of your pod - pale blue for Jacaranda, and coral for Acer (which means maple) - whilst antique tables and chairs remind you that you're still part of a traditional quinta. Spoiling extras include kingsize beds, Egyptian cotton sheets, bathrobes, piles of snowy white towels and Damana goodies. Every mod con is in place, too: air-conditioning, WiFi, and flat-screen TV, as well as a functional shower room.
If you're of more conservative bent, choose one of the 5 traditional apartments that wrap around the clipped lawns behind the main house, all with kitchenettes. Four of them sleep 2, and can be set up as doubles or twins. Of these, our favourite is Casa da Fonte, whose huge private terrace has a spring-fed granite basin that doubles as a private plunge pool in summer. Buganvília and Magnolia sit alongside together, each with a living room and kitchen; perfect if you're travelling with another couple or older kids. Casa da Camelia was one of our favourites; it's bright and airy with a lovely private terrace, and has space inside for a child, too.
Set slightly apart from the rest of the apartments, Lavanda is where we stayed on our latest visit, and the only 2-bedroom apartment. It has high ceilings and a little kitchenette, along with a twin and a double, making it the obvious choice for families.
The apartments' interiors have been decorated with panache by Ana, who hand-painted much of the furniture and has colour-coded them to perfection. The feeling is warm and welcoming: wooden beams, antique beds and floral fabrics impart a much cosier feel than the 2 pods, but equally pleasing.
In the main house there's one suite, Vinha, the only room without a kitchenette. The decoration is in the same cosy-rustic style as the courtyard apartments.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Central heating
- Coffee / tea making
- Cots available
- Fireplace
- Hairdryer
- In-room treatments available
- Minibar
- Mosquito net
- Toiletries
- TV
- WiFi
Eating
The makings of a wonderful breakfast are delivered in a picnic basket to your room at the time of your choice. Expect several types of freshly baked bread, various cakes or pastries, a plate of local cheese and quince jelly, charcuterie or ham, homemade jams or honey and a bowl of seasonal fruit along with yoghurt and cereal. Coffee and tea are already provided in your room, and, joy of breakfast joys, a whole jug of freshly squeezed orange juice is delivered daily, too.
No other meals are served, but all apartments (save the Casa da Vinha Suite) have been conceived with light self-catering in mind. Each has a kitchenette or (in Casa Buganvília) a small but full kitchen, as well as indoor and outdoor dining areas. You get a few things to start you off – bottled water, fresh fruit, coffee, tea, milk, sugar – plus a bottle of wine for booking through i-escape. You can order gourmet frozen meals to make self-catering easier. Shopping locally is a breeze: you'll pick up produce to rival that of any farmer's market, or there's a supermarket 1km away. Don't miss out on buying fish fresh from the slab at the port at Viana. If you're staying in one of the traditional apartments grouped around the lawn, you may find yourself getting together with other guests at mealtimes, especially if you're using the communal barbecue: the relaxed vibe of this place seems to foster sociability. If you're a group of 8 or more you can arrange for a chef to cater for you.
If you fancy a break from cooking, there are first class restaurants galore within a 20-minute radius. We had one of our most memorable meals in Portugal down by the quayside in Viana at the wonderful Tasquinha da Linda, whose ocean-fresh fish is sublime. A little further into town, Taberna do Valentím is a local institution: when the fresh fish runs out, Valentím simply closes shop. Following the good counsel of our hosts we also tried 2 simpler eateries: O Tasco Regional, a tiny tapas bar and wine shop close to a busy road, whose food and friendly service more than compensated; and O Espigueiro, even closer, whose indoor and outdoor dining, modest prices and really tasty regional food earned a big thumbs up from us.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Coffee maker
- Fridge
- Kitchenette
- Meal delivery service
- Microwave
- Toaster
- Barbecue
Activities
- Hunker down with a book in a quiet corner of the Quinta's gorgeous garden
- Or go exploring in the forests, gardens and vineyards; there are two easy trails to follow - just scan the QR code to get a digital map, and off you go
- Head up to the basilica of Santa Luzia high above Viana for a stunning view of the town and the Atlantic
- Cycle or walk along the leafy ecovia which runs along the Lima's south bank and passes close to Bouça d'Arqués
- Let João guide you towards idyllic river pools in the Neiva for magical summertime bathing
- Drive less than half an hour to some of the most beautiful beaches in the country: surfers will have already heard of Afife and Moledo; for kitesurfing and windsurfing head to Cabedelo Viana beach
- Discover the magnificent old town of Ponte de Lima or head slightly further afield to visit Braga, Barcelos and Valença
- Set time aside to talk and have a drink with João, who will tell you all about life at the quinta; wine and snacks will be provided
- Walk a part of The Way of St James: a footpath leading out from the Quinta links in with one of the major medieval routes to Santiago
- Explore the wild scenery of Peneda Geres National Park for its mountainous ridges and plentiful plantlife
- The Minho is where Vinho Verde wine originates, go winetasting around Viana do Castelo
- There are three golf courses nearby - in Ponte de Lima, Estela and Fão
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Cycling
- Golf
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Kitesurfing
- Museums / galleries
- Plantlife / flora
- SUP
- Surfing
- Swimming
- Tennis
- Well being
- Windsurfing
- Wine tasting
Kids
We can vouch for the fact that families love this place, having witnessed an Argentinean family whoop it up during our stay. There's that big sweep of flat lawn for toddling, running and outdoor games, there are the woods to explore, the pool, a secret wooden house and easy interaction with other bambinos. They recommend it for families with children aged 4-12, and we'd add that it's good for under 4s too (but watch the pool!).
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
All the apartments and both pods are a great option for families. The suite doesn't have a kitchenette, but all other accommodations do.
For those travelling with 2 or more kids, Casa da Lavanda is the best option as it's huge (90m2) and has 2 bedrooms (one twin, one double). The price quoted also includes 4 guests (ie 2 parents and 2 kids). You could otherwise book both Casa Buganvília and Casa Magnolia as they are adjacent. Their prices don't include extra beds (children 4 and up are charged). Cots incur a small fee. There are 3 extra cots and 8 extra beds overall.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Babysitting:
English-speaking available, arrange in advance.
Baby equipment:
- High chair
- Baby bedding
- Night light
- Baby bath
- Bottles can be warmed
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Kids Activities on site:
- Walking in the forest and in the vineyards
- Saltwater swimming pool
- 6 bikes for hire (for free)
- Great flat lawn for games
- Woods to play in plus secret wood house
- Childrens DVDs
Kids Activities nearby:
- Animal farm 15 minutes' away
- Playground in Viana do Castelo 12 minutes' away
- Beaches and watersports (surfing, windsurfing) 15 minutes' away
- River beaches and pools 10 minutes' away
- Old Sea Boat 10 minutes' away
Families Should Know:
It's not particularly pushchair friendly and the main hazards are steep stairs and the unfenced pool. You can get a mobile signal everywhere in the property.
Distances:
- Airport: 30 minutes
- Hospital: 12 minutes
- Shops: 5 minutes
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Quinta da Bouca d'Arques is found in Portugal's historic northwest Minho province, 10 minutes' drive from the town of Viana do Castelo, and 15 minutes from the coast. Quinta da Bouca can be reached in a little under an hour from Porto (60km) whilst you should allow half a day if you are driving from Lisboa (370km). The Quinta is also easily reached from Santiago in Spain (185km), which is a little over 2 hours away.
By Air
Fly into Porto (although technically Vigo, a Spanish airport over the border, is actually closer).
From the Airport
We'd definitely recommend hiring a car, for ease of getting here, and so you can explore the region once you've arrived.
By Car
Even though most of the Quinta's accommodation is set up for self-catering you really need a car to get the most out of your stay. There are some great fish restaurants in Viana, which is about a 20 minute drive away, whilst many of the area's secret treasures can only be reached if you have your own wheels. See our car rental recommendations.
By Train
You could take a bus or a train to Viana, taxi up to the Quinta via the local market and shops, then spend a blissful week in self-catering mode. The nearest train station, Barroselas, is 4km away.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
Airports:
- Porto 60.0 km OPO
- Vigo 80.0 km VGO
Other:
- Beach 12.0 km
- Shops 1.0 km
- Restaurant 7.0 km