As you rattle along a steep, pot-holed track to get here, Casa do Rio appears on the horizon, seemingly suspended in mid-air. A vast oak and glass cabin stilted on stone over a valley, it is a real feat of architecture, more reminiscent of a spaceship than a boutique hotel. But it is this dramatic positioning that makes the place so special when you finally arrive, with uninterrupted views of the petrol-blue River Douro through floor-to-ceiling windows.
Surrounded by olive trees, wild flowers and hectares of organic vineyards, the cabin's natural facade blends into the landscape, and is enveloped in peace; not a neighbour in sight. Inside, a breezy open-plan living space has a mid-century modern style, with leather sofas, Scandi-chic wooden chairs and A9 Bang & Olufsen speakers. Through bi-fold doors there's a long dining terrace for candlelit dinners and sunny breakfasts. The 8 bedrooms are sleek and stylish, with pod wood-burners and river views from tiny terraces. If you're looking for somewhere to unwind amongst nature or spend time with someone special, this place will enchant you. It had only been open 3 months when we stayed (Sept 2015), and in that time many guests had extended their stay or booked a return visit, which says it all.
Highs
- Tasty dinners paired with excellent wines by Quinta do Vallado (their sister hotel, a famed winery estate)
- Good value
- A beautiful infinity pool and tranquil riverside deck
- Friendly staff create an at-home feel
- Adults only so a tranquil place to chill, but great activities on offer, too: wine tasting, boat trips, SUP, kayaking
Lows
- Not easy to find, and the 2km dirt track leading from the N22 is rather rough, though they plan to pave it
- Dinner is only served Mon-Sat (you'll need to drive out to eat on Sundays) and is a set menu, but it changes daily
- Elements of breakfast were disappointing; packet croissants and watered-down fresh orange juice
- Mosquitoes at dinner and wasps at breakfast, due to the riverside setting
- The walk down to the river involves some perilous steps and lots of steep bits; bring good shoes
Best time to go
Northern Portugal is an all-year destination. Springs are glorious, when the vines burst with leaves, and summers can be very hot. Autumn (when we visited) is beautiful, with the vines on the turn and warm days followed by chilly evenings. Winter sees some rain and it does get colder, but each room has a wood-burner. Note that the pool is unheated, so late spring, summer and early autumn will be your best bet if you want to swim.
Our top tips
Ask staff about the nearby river falls, where you can go wild swimming.
Location
Casa do Rio is set on the banks of the River Douro, 6km from Castelo Melhor in Vila Nova de Foz Coa. It's about 3 hours' drive from Porto (Oporto).
By Air:
Vila Real is the closest airport, but Porto is a much bigger hub. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.
From the Airport
Transfers can be arranged, but if you want to travel independently, you will need a car to get here. See our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Portugal and getting around
Airports:
- Porto Francisco Sá Carneiro 250.0 km OPO
- Vila Real Chaves 122.0 km CHV
Other:
- Beach 219.0 km
- Shops 6.0 km
- Restaurant 6.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests
Amazing, amazing, amazing. Casa do Rio is just absolutely magic. The rooms are very well decorated and when I mean well decorated I mean with spotless good taste. The breakfast is good and I recommend having dinner there. The views are breathtaking. The property is so beautiful, the pools are very relaxing and also with amazing views to the Douro. The wine tasting is a must.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape