Quinta do Vallado
near Peso da Régua, Porto, Douro & Minho, Portugal
Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
The Ribeiro family saw the way the land lies. Well they should do, given their long association with the Douro region, and their extensive vineyards that traverse every wrinkle and fold of these spectacular mountains. So they upgraded their vintage manor house into a small hotel with 5 comfortable rooms in 2005, to better promote the Quinta do Vallado brand in particular, and to capitalise on the growing popularity of the region, Portugal's answer to Tuscany or Bordeaux.
The winery itself was architect-redesigned and modernised in 2009, making bold use of local schist. The winery-hotel's success led to an additional smart New Wing with a further 8 rooms, a library, a chic living room and a dining room. This striking building has large glass windows overlooking the Corgo valley, cut-slate walls and wooden floors. The ethos is to use only Portuguese materials, products and produce (if possible from Douro or Porto) - from the slate to the toiletries to the goats' cheese. And speaking of food, we loved the flavours and regional specialities, and blissfully went from meal to meal in a happy daze, enhanced by the excellent home-grown wines (recommended by Jancis Robinson, no less). Otherwise, you can splash in the pool, have a massage, borrow a bicycle or take a cooking class, and the winery tour is a must. What a marvellous blend!
The winery itself was architect-redesigned and modernised in 2009, making bold use of local schist. The winery-hotel's success led to an additional smart New Wing with a further 8 rooms, a library, a chic living room and a dining room. This striking building has large glass windows overlooking the Corgo valley, cut-slate walls and wooden floors. The ethos is to use only Portuguese materials, products and produce (if possible from Douro or Porto) - from the slate to the toiletries to the goats' cheese. And speaking of food, we loved the flavours and regional specialities, and blissfully went from meal to meal in a happy daze, enhanced by the excellent home-grown wines (recommended by Jancis Robinson, no less). Otherwise, you can splash in the pool, have a massage, borrow a bicycle or take a cooking class, and the winery tour is a must. What a marvellous blend!
Highs
- Wonderful terraced setting on the slopes of the Corgo river, close to the confluence with the Douro; fab views
- Supremely comfortable rooms and facilities in both sections of the hotel; all fixtures and finishings are of the highest quality
- Delicious food and great wine - all as local as possible; they even have their own vegetable patch
- Good value, and will suit everybody from honeymooners to families
- Just a short drive from the mighty Douro itself (boat trips recommended) and there's kayaking and fishing on the Corgo river
Lows
- The (seemingly seldom used, and thus luckily relatively quiet) IP3/A24 motorway traverses the valley opposite, which does slightly blight the view
- Dinner is a set menu with at most 2 choices, and lunch is chosen from a limited menu, though you can always request alternatives
- The pool is unheated
- We couldn't find the property that easily, but this was likely more our fault than theirs...
Best time to go
Northern Portugal is pretty much an all-year destination. Springs are glorious, when the vines burst with leaves, and summers can be very hot indeed (thankfully, there's a pool to cool off in). Autumn (when we visited) is really beautiful, with the vines on the turn and warm days followed by chilly evenings. Winter sees some rain and it does get colder, but good food and wine will keep any blues away. Note that the pool is unheated, so late spring, summer and early autumn will be your best bet if you want to swim off some of the excess calories consumed at delicious mealtimes.
Our top tips
Don't miss a boat trip up the Douro Valley. The terraced hills, old port lodges and steep valleys make for a memorable and relaxed voyage.