On the bohemian fringe of Porto’s Old Town, Cocorico Guesthouse is a pioneer of regeneration in an area already known for vibrant art and culture (the São João National Theatre is just a few minutes’ walk away). Two restored 18th-century townhouses have been knocked into one and the result is a beautifully furnished guesthouse that celebrates the long romance between France and Portugal – a theme which is evident in almost every detail.
Inside, it’s all cool, tiled floors, lofty ceilings and ornate plasterwork, A cantilevered staircase limbers up to 10 elegant rooms and suites, each decorated with French antiques, wrought iron frames and original features. Most have super-sized, open-plan bathrooms and some have big balconies with folding doors, making them feel very romantic; the emphasis here is on couples, but there are three family rooms, too. Do linger in the cocktail bar, which serves excellent drinks and small plates, and there's a pretty terrace for alfresco dining on a balmy summers day.
Cocorico means 'cock-a-doodle-doo' in French, and the colourful rooster, an emblem of Portugal, represents this nation’s love of life. You're invited to share this happy mindset and make yourself completely at home.
Highs
- The rooms are light and generous, cleverly combining contemporary design with original features
- Brilliant location, quieter than most of central Porto but within walking distance of most of the city’s must-dos
- The team of first-class staff go all out to make guests feel at home - the atmosphere here is very welcoming and laid-back
- The cocktail bar's cool, shady courtyard is the perfect place to try a glass of chilled Dalva Espumante or one of Cocorico’s signature cocktails
Lows
- No proper restaurant on-site; but plenty of eating options within walking distance
- The hotel is on a street that looks a little rundown, but any misgivings are dispelled the moment you cross the threshold
- Not everyone will love the open-plan bathrooms (fear not, the loos are separate and completely private)
- Views are not a strong point, though we rather liked the jumble of crumbling rooftops and wild gardens at the back of the house
- With wooden floors in an old building, noise carries
Best time to go
Porto is a year-round destination, though some prefer to avoid the hot, crowded months of July and August. In spring and autumn, the weather is usually warm and the city quieter. Come in June (23-24) for the city’s most famous and exuberant festival: Festa de São Joao. It can be wet and a little chilly in winter, but this is the best time to visit the dimly lit cellars of the port lodges of Gaia or to catch the Christmas lights.
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