1872 River House
Porto, Douro & Minho, Portugal
Reviewed by
Abi Dare
Tumbling down towards the Douro, the historic Ribeira district is a beguiling jumble of sun-dappled squares, crumbling townhouses and laundry-strung lanes. At its very heart, right on the riverbank, sits this sophisticated little B&B - a tall, skinny mansion in salmon pink, reached via a stained-glass walkway that casts colourful reflections over the cobbles outside.
Born in 2014 from the ashes of a 19th-century building damaged by fire, it ticks all the boxes for an easy break in Portugal’s buzzing second city. The eight rooms (some facing the water, others the street) are impeccably restored, with sleek furniture, sink-into beds and swish rain showers alongside exposed stone walls and heavy wooden shutters. The friendly team will point you in the direction of museums, galleries and restaurants, and the famous port lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia are just across the river. And when you tire of sightseeing, feasting and wine-tasting, you can amble back to the lounge and relax with a drink as barges chug slowly past.
Born in 2014 from the ashes of a 19th-century building damaged by fire, it ticks all the boxes for an easy break in Portugal’s buzzing second city. The eight rooms (some facing the water, others the street) are impeccably restored, with sleek furniture, sink-into beds and swish rain showers alongside exposed stone walls and heavy wooden shutters. The friendly team will point you in the direction of museums, galleries and restaurants, and the famous port lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia are just across the river. And when you tire of sightseeing, feasting and wine-tasting, you can amble back to the lounge and relax with a drink as barges chug slowly past.
Highs
- An unbeatable location near restaurants and sights - and Tram No.1, which rattles along to the beach, stops right outside
- We loved the views over the Douro from the lounge and many rooms
- Breakfast is served until a lazy 1pm - perfect for indulgent holiday lie-ins
- Smiling staff who are passionate about their city and keen to make you feel at home
- You’ll get a handy code providing free WiFi across Porto
Lows
- A couple of rooms have open-plan ensuites (not for those who like their privacy), though toilets are enclosed
- Not ideal for kids, with no extra beds or baby cots and a serene atmosphere that's best suited to couples or friends
- Some street noise, particularly from the City View rooms
- Don't expect a full-service hotel; this is very much a B&B and it's not staffed around the clock
Best time to go
The B&B is open year-round. Come between April and September for balmy weather, or choose autumn if you want to catch the grape harvest in the nearby Douro Valley. June sees Porto come alive with fireworks, music and street parties thanks to the annual Festival of São João - it’s a fascinating time to visit, but don’t count on getting much sleep!
Our top tips
- Hop aboard the wood-panelled Tram No.1, which stops right outside the B&B, and clatter along the river to the former fishing village of Foz do Douro. Once there, head for the glam beach bars on Praia da Luz, sip cocktails, and watch the sun set over the Atlantic
- Wander up to São Bento, the city’s main station, which is covered in tiled panels depicting Portuguese history. It’s worth a look even if you’re not taking a train