Rosa Et Al Townhouse
Porto, Douro & Minho, Portugal
Reviewed by
Abi Dare
Porto has a warm, creative buzz and in its hippest neighbourhood, close to the gallery-studded Rua de Miguel Bombarda, is the warm, creative Rosa Et Al Townhouse. Hidden behind the most unassuming of doorways, this elegant old building has been imaginatively restored by brother-and-sister team Emanuel and Patrícia, and from the moment you enter it feels more like home than hotel. Rotating modern art adorns the walls and a sense of wellbeing pervades throughout, from the bright lobby showcasing homemade gourmet products at the front to the herb-scented garden to the rear.
It's well suited to a weekend break, and staff will anticipate your every need: booking taxis, suggesting restaurants, and sharing insider tips on their favourite haunts. A spiral staircase topped by a magnificent glass dome sweeps up to a little library and six light-filled bedrooms, all with a funky blend of vintage 60s furniture, Portuguese linens and clawfoot tubs, and many with balconies that catch the sun. A seventh bedroom waits in the Garden Pavilion. You can also book an elegant loft apartment located near Praça da Batalha, in the heart of the city centre. As for the food - much of it organic, some of it home-grown - it’s a delicious surprise from lazy all day brunches to informal dinners. We loved it as much as the vibrant city in which it sits, and we can’t wait to return.
It's well suited to a weekend break, and staff will anticipate your every need: booking taxis, suggesting restaurants, and sharing insider tips on their favourite haunts. A spiral staircase topped by a magnificent glass dome sweeps up to a little library and six light-filled bedrooms, all with a funky blend of vintage 60s furniture, Portuguese linens and clawfoot tubs, and many with balconies that catch the sun. A seventh bedroom waits in the Garden Pavilion. You can also book an elegant loft apartment located near Praça da Batalha, in the heart of the city centre. As for the food - much of it organic, some of it home-grown - it’s a delicious surprise from lazy all day brunches to informal dinners. We loved it as much as the vibrant city in which it sits, and we can’t wait to return.
Highs
- An impeccable renovation of a traditional townhouse, with original architecture alongside contemporary design
- An intimate, laid-back atmosphere, with an enchanting city garden and in-room massages to help you unwind
- Spacious, well-priced rooms with covetable pieces by the likes of Charles and Ray Eames and Hans Wegner
- Lots of tasty treats: three-, six-, nine- and 12-course dinners, all-day brunches, home-baked cakes, cookery workshops
- Set in the trendiest part of town, where restaurants and boutiques abound, and just a 15-minute stroll from the historic riverfront
Lows
- The Club room has no fitted division between the bed and bathroom (not ideal for those who like their privacy)
- The building isn't obviously marked, making it delightfully discreet but a bit tricky to spot
- Service at breakfast can be a little slow (another excuse to sit back and take things easy!)
- No lift so it’s a bit of a clamber up to rooms on the upper floors, but staff will assist with luggage
- The floorboards are very creaky - we could hear people moving about in the room above when we last visited
Best time to go
Generally, we'd recommend coming in March, April or May before it gets too hot and the tourists descend. September is great if you’re interested in seeing the grape harvest in the nearby Douro Valley, and October often brings late summer sun. You may wish to time your trip to coincide with one of Porto’s many festivals, the most famous of which is the colourful Festa de São João in June - a big street party with music and fireworks.
Our top tips
Don’t miss the Portuguese Centre for Photography, housed in a former prison (complete with original barred windows!) just a short walk from the hotel. It has some excellent exhibitions of contemporary work, as well as an interesting collection of vintage cameras. The top floor provides sweeping views over Porto's rooftops, too.