Borgo Castello Panicaglia
Nocera Umbra, Umbria & Le Marche, Italy
Borgo Castello Panicaglia is one of those just-right retreats that somehow manages to appeal to all ages: The Goldilocks choice of boutique family escapes. Located on a private estate in a teeny medieval village, this former 13th-century castle enjoys picturesque views over Umbria’s rugged green hills, olive groves and forests. Run by young Dutch couple Albert and Inger, the aim was to create a rural retreat that looks spectacular both inside and out, all the while appealing to couples and families alike, and remaining affordable. A very ambitious goal, but one they’ve nailed.
The retreat features 17 rustic-luxe rooms (many of which can be interconnected), beautifully presented home-cooked food, and a whole host of activities for all. Try pasta- or pizza-making and pick your own ingredients from the veg patch, borrow bikes and ride over the hills to pretty villages, and sample the region’s delectable wines and olive oils. Or just bliss out by the pool and gorge on amazing three-course dinners, served every evening. Come in spring or autumn for cycling, walking, yoga or food; or in the summer holidays for family fun: kids' film screenings, arts and crafts, treasure hunts - all completely free of charge! This is an absolute gem of a find for families.
The retreat features 17 rustic-luxe rooms (many of which can be interconnected), beautifully presented home-cooked food, and a whole host of activities for all. Try pasta- or pizza-making and pick your own ingredients from the veg patch, borrow bikes and ride over the hills to pretty villages, and sample the region’s delectable wines and olive oils. Or just bliss out by the pool and gorge on amazing three-course dinners, served every evening. Come in spring or autumn for cycling, walking, yoga or food; or in the summer holidays for family fun: kids' film screenings, arts and crafts, treasure hunts - all completely free of charge! This is an absolute gem of a find for families.
Highs
- A rustic retreat with very smart rooms that come at surprisingly affordable prices
- Delicious-looking food that's served all day and incorporates homegrown organic ingredients
- A dream for families: free kids’ activities run in school holidays, lots of rooms interconnect, the swimming pool is fenced, meal plans are available
- This part of Umbria is unspoilt, rich in culture and great for foodies; come for truffle hunting, wine tasting, local festivals, and scenic walks/cycle routes
Lows
- Couples and solo travellers might be put off visiting in July/August, when the retreat is geared more towards families
- This is a rural location, so you’ll need a car to explore and to reach amenities (restaurants, shops etc)
Best time to go
The secluded hill-top location makes this a good choice for high season. It’s geared up for families during July and August, though prepare for heat and summer crowds in the region. Couples would prefer spring or early summer, when the countryside is garlanded with flowers. Autumn is harvest season, making it a great time for foodies to visit.
Our top tips
Follow the spectacular mountain road to Gubbio and immerse yourself in 2000 years of history. There’s a Roman theatre still used in summer, plus palazzos, churches and the Duomo. Don’t miss the cable car that links the sanctuary of St Ubaldo to the summit of Mount Ingino, for breathtaking Apennine mountain views