A huddle of low white buildings with cane-shaded terraces, draped armchairs and carpets of purple flowers looks out past 7 hectares of vineyards and a towering lighthouse to a deep blue sea. It could be Santorini without the crowds. But this is the Tyrrhenian Sea so, instead of the caldera, you get the distant volcano of Stromboli; behind you loom the lush pyramids of Salina's mountains.
By day, guests tan by the decked pool, the sea shimmers below, bamboos wave, and grapes grow. At night Stromboli throws sparks into the sky, and the poolside restaurant-bar comes alive with chilled music and beautiful people. This is a stunning, other-worldly spot, where lunar meets aquatic amidst a sea of greenery. Most bedrooms are housed inside pared-down white cubes with the slickest of fittings and pampering bathrooms. Six more rooms and suites are hidden away in the lighthouse, delightfully restored in 2018, and these overlook the cliffs and sea, with the twin mountains of Salina behind. The cuisine is ultra-refined Aeolian with a twist. Salina is tiny but repays exploration by boat, moped or foot: crystal waters, smooth-stoned beaches, twisting paths through semi-tropical flora. Come in spring or autumn and you'll have it almost to yourself.
Highs
- A chilled-out, informal vibe with chatty staff and bronzed guests
- The all-white rooms have exemplary minimalism, with shady terraces looking across indigo seas to still-active Stromboli
- The Aeolian architecture - low buildings, cannizzi roofs, thick walls - has shades of Bali and the Cyclades inside
- A lovely decked swimming pool with white sunbeds and parasols, plus a groovy cocktail bar and upscale terrace dining
- Salina is lusher, larger and less touristy than other Aeolian islands, but has the same volcanic seascapes
Lows
- No beach, apart from a small stretch of pebbles a 15-minute walk away; Salina’s coast is generally steep and rocky
- If you fancy eating out you'll have to head into Santa Marina, 5km away
- Getting here isn't easy: there are hydrofoils from Milazzo and Messina on Sicily and, in summer, from Naples and Palermo
- You’ll be lucky to find a room in July or August, and will pay handsomely for it if you do
Best time to go
Summer is extremely busy - in July and August you'll be lucky to find a room as they get booked up months in advance. It's also very hot. Much better to come in spring (April to early June) or autumn (September and October) if you can: temperatures are balmy (both swimming and hiking are comfortable), and prices are much more reasonable. You'll also have the island almost to yourself: when we visited in mid-April, there were perhaps a dozen other tourists. The hotel is normally closed from late October to early April.
Our top tips
Most guests stay for 4-6 nights, which is about right for a leisurely exploration of the island, a couple of boat or hydrofoil trips, perhaps a hike or a cruise around the other islands, and some down-time. Don't even contemplate staying for less than 3 nights: the journey from anywhere outside Italy, even using helicopter transfers, takes a full day - which only leaves 2 days on the island.
Location
Capofaro Locanda & Malvasia is on Salina, one of the Aeolian Islands, near Sicily. It's 5km from Santa Marina, the island's port and main town.
By Air
The nearest airport is Catania (120km away) on Sicily. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving it.
By Hydrofoil / Ferry
There are 3 hydrofoil / ferry companies operating in the Aeolian Islands (navi means ferries, aliscafi are hydrofoils): Ustica Lines, Siremar and SNAV (Naples-Salina) - see below for more details. Once on Salina, Capofaro will arrange a minibus / taxi to take you from the port at Santa Marina up to the hotel (see Rates).
From Milazzo
It's easiest (especially outside midsummer) to fly to Catania and then take a taxi / bus / hire car to Milazzo (2 hours away), from where there are 5-10 daily hydrofoils crossing to Salina in 90 minutes, and a slow ferry which takes 3-4 hours.
From Messina
Another option is to take the hydrofoil from Messina on Sicily (there are fewer sailings and a longer journey time), which is closer to Catania and to the Italian mainland, should you be coming from there.
From Palermo, Naples and other ports
In summer (July to September) you can take the hydrofoil straight from Palermo (half a day's journey) or Naples (a day), both of which have regular flights from around Europe. Or, throughout the year, there is an overnight ferry once a week from Naples. But bear in mind that both of these are more susceptible to bad weather. There are also sporadic sailings to Salina from Cefalù and Santa Agata Militello on Sicily, and from Reggio di Calabria on the mainland.
By Hydroplane
There is a hydroplane service from Palermo and Catania several times a week - see EOLNET for more info.
By Bus
Two bus companies link Milazzo / Messina with Catania: SAIS and Giuntabus. However, you may find it's easier and not much more expensive to hire a car and leave it in Milazzo, even if it's only for this trip; Europcar, Hertz and Alamo have offices in Milazzo.
Detailed directions will be sent to you once your booking is confirmed.
More on getting to Sicily and the Aeolian Islands and getting around
Airports:
- Catania Fontanarossa 120.0 km CTA
Other:
- Beach 0.5 km
- Shops 5.0 km
- Restaurant 5.0 km