Reviewed by
Abi Dare
The pretty resort town of Taormina has been attracting British expats (D.H. Lawrence among them) for centuries, so it’s no surprise to find a hotel bearing a name like The Ashbee nestling among its pine-clad peaks. Set in a 1908 villa built for an English colonel by renowned Arts & Crafts architect Charles Ashbee, this sumptuous retreat is small by Taormina’s standards - just 24 rooms and suites - but big on service. Inspired by the house's history, the owners aim to mix the best of British and Sicilian tradition: discreet waiters serve Prosecco from silver ice buckets, the Michelin-starred restaurant's bay windows look out over citrus groves, and elegant antiques mingle with flashes of Italian exuberance (striped wallpaper, marble columns, red glass chandeliers).
But it’s the breathtaking setting that steals the show. Wide terraces dotted with lemon trees spill down towards the azure Ionian Sea, and on a clear day you can see across to the Italian mainland. If you want to venture out, you’ll find Taormina’s café-lined piazzas and stunning Greek amphitheatre on your doorstep, and towering Mt Etna a short drive away. If you’re anything like us, though, you’ll spend much of your time lazing blissfully by the infinity pool, working your way through the impressive cocktail list.
But it’s the breathtaking setting that steals the show. Wide terraces dotted with lemon trees spill down towards the azure Ionian Sea, and on a clear day you can see across to the Italian mainland. If you want to venture out, you’ll find Taormina’s café-lined piazzas and stunning Greek amphitheatre on your doorstep, and towering Mt Etna a short drive away. If you’re anything like us, though, you’ll spend much of your time lazing blissfully by the infinity pool, working your way through the impressive cocktail list.
Highs
- The atmosphere is refined but far from stuffy; this is a place to unwind and be pampered
- An idyllic setting for honeymoons and romantic breaks
- Delicious breakfasts, with local fruit and pastries, tea and coffee in silver pots, and British-style cooked options (bacon, scrambled eggs, even baked beans)
- Plenty of complimentary treats: welcome cocktails on arrival, granita by the pool, and platters of canapés with evening drinks
- Rooms are large and kitted out with monsoon showers and snazzy back-lit TVs. Many have terraces and Jacuzzi baths, too
Lows
- It's pretty pricey
- The décor - more traditional than trendy - won't be to everyone's taste, and we found the flocked brown wallpaper in some rooms a little overpowering
- There’s a hefty daily charge for parking
- Few of the rooms have sea views, but you can soak up the spectacular vistas from the restaurant, communal terrace and pool
Best time to go
Sicily is at its most wonderful in spring (April-early June) and autumn (September and October), when the days are usually sunny but not scorching, and the evenings are balmy. Taormina is packed in July and August and summer temperatures can get unbearably hot, but The Ashbee’s cliff-top position brings some relief in the form of cooling sea breezes. Note that the hotel often closes over winter (November-March).
Our top tips
Bar-hop along Corso Umberto I, Taormina’s main drag, during the evening aperitivo (happy hour). There are plenty of classy cocktail joints with alfresco tables, and we stumbled across fantastic live jazz on the candlelit terrace of The Metropole hotel. Drinks are normally served with nibbles - anything from a bowl of olives to a plate of cannelloni - so if you go to a few, you may find yourself too full for dinner.