Casa Das Senhoras Rainhas
Obidos, Lisbon Coast, Portugal
Reviewed by
Tom Bell
Obidos is one of Portugal’s crown jewels, a walled town with a castle and ramparts. It was taken from the Moors in 1148 by King Dinis I, who gifted it to his wife, holy queen Isabel, and for 700 years it was an integral part of the house of Portuguese queens (the hotel’s name). It was partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, but much survives. There are 14 churches within the walls and fine azulejos (antique tiles) in each gatehouse.
This grand old building stands against the eastern wall; you can sit on your terrace drink in hand, the envy of tourists circling the ramparts above you. Dine in the garden in summer or in the restaurant itself, or help yourself to a drink in the sitting room, where an open fire smoulders in winter. Outside, bougainvillea roams on whitewashed walls, cobbled lanes wait to be explored. Climb the hill to the west to find a very pretty miradouro with views over the town, and a bar with jazz on Friday nights in summer. Beyond the walls you’ll find a tidal lagoon and the long, wave-laced sands of Foz do Arelho.
This grand old building stands against the eastern wall; you can sit on your terrace drink in hand, the envy of tourists circling the ramparts above you. Dine in the garden in summer or in the restaurant itself, or help yourself to a drink in the sitting room, where an open fire smoulders in winter. Outside, bougainvillea roams on whitewashed walls, cobbled lanes wait to be explored. Climb the hill to the west to find a very pretty miradouro with views over the town, and a bar with jazz on Friday nights in summer. Beyond the walls you’ll find a tidal lagoon and the long, wave-laced sands of Foz do Arelho.
Highs
- Touring Obidos on the rampart walls - a lovely town to explore
- The tasteful rooms, most with balcony or terrace overlooking the walls
- Plenty of festas, including street processions over Easter, a medieval market in the first week of July, and a chocolate festival in November
- A warm welcome and very helpful service
- Overall a more stylish (and less expensive) hotel than the town's better-known pousada
Lows
- The town can get clogged with tourists in high season
- You're not on the coast - Obidos used to be, but the sea has retreated
- In keeping with conservation laws inside the walled citadel, there's no pool
- Recent feedback suggests maintenance and cleanliness have slipped, but we still think it's the best option in Obidos' old town
Best time to go
This is a year-round destination. It’s busy from June to August, extremely busy for Easter. If you want to avoid the crowds, come in Spring or early Autumn.
Local festas, include traditional street processions on Palm Sunday and Good Friday, a medieval market in the first week of July, and a chocolate festival in November. In Peniche on the first weekend in August, the festival of Nossa Senhora de Boa Viagem sees crowds of candle-holders parade a statue of the Virgin down to the harbour, before moving on to fireworks and street dancing.
Local festas, include traditional street processions on Palm Sunday and Good Friday, a medieval market in the first week of July, and a chocolate festival in November. In Peniche on the first weekend in August, the festival of Nossa Senhora de Boa Viagem sees crowds of candle-holders parade a statue of the Virgin down to the harbour, before moving on to fireworks and street dancing.
Our top tips
Easter is celebrated with much fanfare in Obidos. There are grand processions on Palm Sunday, while crowds pack the streets on Good Friday as the locals perform the Passion of Christ on the streets.